Rock Climbing in Scotland
A Visitors Guide
ACCESS LEGISLATION and The Code
This means that you should not encounter hostility from landowners as long as you are doing no damage or disrupting land management activities. Further information (“Freedom To Roam” and “Wild Camping” leaflets; Access Information Sheets) is available from the MCofS.
Part of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 translates into statute what people commonly regarded as their “right to roam” in Scotland (see http://www.scotland-legislation.hmso.gov.uk/legislation/scotland/acts2003/20030002.htm). It states the rights and responsibilities of those exercising access rights, as well as those of land managers and recreation managers. This Act is supported by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (SOAC) (see: http://www.outdooraccess-scotland.com/) and which we have explained for you HERE. The Code gives guidance about what is “responsible.” Essentially this means you should take responsibility for your own actions, respect others privacy, do not interfere with legitimate land management, and take care of the environment. The Act also requires local authorities to appoint Access Officers.
The other important piece of legislation is the Nature Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004 which climbers need to know about as it affects disturbance to wildlife (see: http://www.opsi.gov.uk/legislation/scotland/acts2004/20040006.htm). You should take reasonable measures to ensure you do not disturb wildlife, otherwise you could be prosecuted for “reckless” disturbance. Check the guidebooks for any indication there may be nesting birds, or other protected species of plants or animals, and avoid the routes and seasons, that are affected. The implications of this legislation are explained HERE.
Bird Nesting
An Information Sheet entitled “Climbers and Nesting Birds” is available from the MCofS which gives general information about what to do and what not to do to reduce disturbance to birds. See it HERE.
Conservation Designations
Many crags in Scotland are designated either because of the existence of rare nesting bird colonies in the vicinity, or rare plant species or rare lichens. It is important to be aware of these and any restrictions that may apply (e.g. seasonal restrictions or restrictions on cleaning of routes).
Some examples are:
The Camel
Location: South west end of Loch Duntelchaig
Climbing: sport climbing venue, roadside
Designation: (SSSI) Rare Lichens
Advice: please do not climb outside the current bolted area in the gully wall
Drumadoon Point
Location: Isle of Arran
Climbing: Trad’ climbing venue, on raised beach dolerite escarpment
Designation: (SSSI) Rare Lichens
Advice: Please do not garden or scrub any part of the crag
Weem Crags
Location: Weem woodland near Aberfeldy
Climbing: sport and Trad’ climbing venue
Designation: (SSSI) Rare flower - Sticky Catchfly (Lychnis viscaria) a delicate flower with bright rosy red petals, which is only known to exist at 12 sites in Scotland and Wales. It can be found on the crags themselves.
Advice: Please do not garden or climb on any of the other crags in the Weem woods than those mentioned in the SMC guide book.
