MCofS Mountaineering Bursary Awards
Expedition Reports Archive
The following Summaries are from expeditions who have received grant funding from the MCofS. The full reports are in pdf format – simply click on the REPORT name. Those without a link to a pdf are available for viewing at the MCofS office in Perth.
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YEAR |
LOCATION |
COUNTRY |
PEAK(s) / CLIMBS |
REPORT |
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1981 |
Kishtwa Himalaya |
India |
The team of six, from Oxford University Mountaineering Club, made a successful ascent of the north face of Agyasol |
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1986 |
Kishtwar Himalaya |
India |
The first ascent of Dandagopurum. |
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1986 |
Cordillera Blanca |
Bolivia |
Routes on Pukashellash, Milpoqraju Este and Maparaju Oeste |
Yorkshire Schools Exploring Soc Peru Expedition |
|
1987 |
Cordillera Blanca |
Bolivia |
A traverse of the summits of Huandoy Este, Norte and Oeste |
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1987 |
Kishtwar Himalaya |
India |
Reached 400ft of the summit of Hagshu. Went on to successfully climb nearby Chiring |
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1988 |
Xinjian |
China |
Climbed 5 of the 7 peaks targeted |
Shiwakti SMC Centenary Expedition |
|
1989 |
Gangotri Region Garwhal Himalaya |
India |
Reached 19,400ft on Bhrigupanth |
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1992 |
Everest Himalaya |
Nepal |
14 summiteers via the South Col route and high on West Ridge |
British Services Everest Expedition |
|
1992 |
Himachal Pradesh |
India |
Ascended Shithidar and reached the col just below Ladakhi peak |
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1992 |
Garwhal Himalaya |
India |
An attempt on the south East Ridge of Nilkanth |
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1993 |
Tasilaq Fjord Region |
Greenland |
An attempt on Lauper Bjerg North East Ridge |
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1993 |
Karakorum |
Pakistan |
Poor weather thwarts any summit attempts |
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1993 |
Cordillera Real |
Bolivia |
Ascent of Huyana Potosi |
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1993 |
Tien Shan |
Kyrgyzstan |
Khan-Tengri south face attempted but ascents via the north and west faces were made |
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1993 |
Everest Himalaya |
Nepal |
First Irish Ascent of Everest |
Irish Everest Expedition |
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1994 |
Central Caucasus |
Russia |
Repeats of Lyalver N Ridge, Ull-auz-Bashi N Ridge, Shkhara Tomaschek Rib |
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1994 |
Central Caucasus |
Russia |
A traverse of Bezingi Wall |
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1994 |
Karakorum |
Pakistan |
Ascent of Jog’s Peak and Nasar (Pyramid) Peak |
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1995 |
Tien Shan |
Kyrgyztan |
Attepmt on Khan Tengri. Ascents of Teke-Tor, Izyskatel North Face, Ak-Too East Face (new), Tien Shanski, Korona & others |
|
|
1996 |
Himalaya |
Nepal |
A team of five made it to 5,800m |
|
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1996 |
Staunings Alps |
Greenland |
A team of eight climbed and named previously un-climbed peaks |
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1996 |
Himachal Pradech |
India |
First ascent of Kulu Eiger |
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1997 |
Himalaya |
Nepal |
Failed at 6200m on Pumori via the south east ridge |
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1997 |
Cordillera Real & Apolobamba |
Bolivia |
Condoiri, Huayna Potosi; Sorel Oeste South Ridge & SW Face; Pico del Norte Austrian Route, Illampu West Face |
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1997 |
Himachal Pradech |
India |
First ascent of the North Face of the Throne |
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1997 |
Annapurna Himalaya |
Nepal |
This Forces team came very close to ascent |
Tharpu Saltire |
|
1997 |
Sondre Sermilik / Lindenows |
Greenland |
Several first ascents in the area |
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|
1997 |
Cape Farwell |
Greenland |
First ascent of Magic Arrow Spire and 18 other routes |
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1998 |
Cordillera Real |
Bolivia |
First ascents of: Cerro Taruca Umana East Ridge, South Ridge, The Cornflake East face, Grobe Mauer East Ridge/North Face |
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1998 |
Blatoro Region |
Pakistan |
The expedition came within 300m of the summit |
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1998 |
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Apolobamba & Central |
Bolivia |
First ascents of Santa Rosa East Ridge, Jachacaupiroja, Jachacunocollo Soth West Ridge; Montserrat South, Llongote Norte North slope, and others |
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1999 |
Cordillera Apolobamba |
Bolivia |
17 climbs from D to AD including 6 possible first ascents |
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1999 |
|
Greenland |
A ski crossing from the western ice cap to the east; the first ascents of four unclimbed peaks. Two further ascents of peaks first ascended in 1997 |
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1999 |
Central Karakorum |
Pakistan |
Ascents of Biacherahi Tower NW Ridge (1st British Ascent); The Indian (Doug Scott) Spur (5000m) by a new line on the West Wall; and Hanispur (6047m) by the North Ridge and believed to be a first ascent |
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2000 |
Garhwal Himalaya |
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2000 |
Cordillera Blanca |
Bolivia |
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2001 |
Staunings Alps |
Greenland |
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2001 |
Cordillera Blanca |
Bolivia |
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2001 |
Lofoten Island |
Norway |
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2002 |
Kokshaal Too |
Kyrgyzstan |
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2002 |
Coast Range, British Columbia |
Canada |
Ascents Alpine style of Mount Gilbert by the North-West Shelf Route and 1st ascent of un-named peak |
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2003 |
Lemon Mountains |
Greenland |
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2003 |
Staunings Alps |
Greenland |
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SMC East Greenland Expedition |
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2004 |
Garwhal Himalay |
India |
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2004 |
Kokshaal Too |
Kyrgyzstan |
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2004 |
Cordillera Huayhuash |
Peru |
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2004 |
Cordillera Vilcanota |
Peru |
1st ascent of Scottish Spur of Kiru (5720m); probable 1st ascents of Inchu Ananat ((5720m) & Ninaparaco (5930m) on Jatunhuma by Geoff Cohen, Des Rubens, Steve Kennedy and Dave Wilkinson |
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2004 |
Tre Cime Dolomites |
Italy |
Dave MacLeod and Scott Muir attempted a repeat of Bellavista (F8c) |
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2005 |
Cordillera Huayhuash & Cordillera Blanca |
Peru |
Poor snow and unstable glacier conditions thwart an atempt on Rondoy. Exploration of Tsacra Grande & Copa Massif in Cordillera Blanca |
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2005 |
Coast Range |
British Columbia |
Atempted the NW Piller of The Athena Tower of Mt Zeus. Complete 1st ascent of the NW Ridge of Mt Zeus (TD); 2nd ascent NW Ridge Mt Fenris (AD) |
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2006 |
Himalaya |
Nepal |
After retreating from N W Ridge of Ama Dablam, Alasdair Coull & Sam Chinnery climbed the 2nd ascent of North Face of Kwangde Lho |
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2006 |
Miyar Valley |
India |
Olliver Metherall leads a team on the 1st ascents of Goya Peak, Gateway Peak & Black Peak |
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2006 |
Miln Land |
Greenland |
Based on Charcotgletscher Glacier, team did 12 peaks including 2 1st ascents and 2nd ascent 'Zippy Goes to Greenland' |
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2006 |
Tafraoute Anti-Atlas |
Morocco |
Guy Robertson and Trevor Woods visit Tafraoute establishing numerous 1st ascents including The Flying Scotsman (E6) |
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2007 |
Ruth Amphitheatre |
Alaska |
Viv Scott & Gareth Hughes make the 1st ascent of the East Face of Dan Beard, Ruth Amphitheatre (Sideburn Rib IV) |
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2007 |
Ruth Gorge |
Alaska |
The 1st ascent of the Mount Hut Coulour between Werewolf and |
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2007 |
Staunings Alps |
Greenland |
8 team members climbed 17 1st ascents of peaks around the Lang Glacier |
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2008 |
Greenland crossing |
Greenland |
A Territorial Army team of 9 crossed the Ice Cap following F Nansens route of 1888 |
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2008 |
Cordillera Oriental |
Peru |
An attempt on the SW Face of Nevado Huagaruncho failed due to poor weather. 2 new routes were climbed on a 5,000m rock peak in the Blanca. |
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2008 |
World Youth Climbing Competition |
Australia |
Robert Mackenzie gains 21st place at the WYC at Sydney |
World Youth Comp |
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2008 |
Sports Climbing & World Cup Competitions |
Europe |
Alan Cassidy attended Bern & Imst World Cups; onsighted 8a+ at Gorge du Tarn , France & repointed 8b+/8c at Rodella, Spain |
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2008 & 2009 |
Ice World Cup Climbing Competitions |
Europe |
Steven Addison becomes the youngest ever climber to take part in Ice World Cup competitions |
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2009 |
Wrangle St Elias Range |
Alaska |
The South West Spur of Mt Vancouver’s satellite peak ‘Good Neighbour’ was climbed Alpine style in a team of 2. |
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2009 |
Gaseland, East Greenland |
Greenland |
A school expedition succeeded on 1st ascents of Tiraluin (1774m), Mount Glasgow (1820m) and Academy Peak (1763m) |
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2009 |
Kangerdluarssugssuaq and Northumberland Island |
Greenland |
A true Tilman-esqe trip in a boat from Scotland to Greenland making 1st ascents at Akuliarusinguaq, Upernavik and Northumberland Island |
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2009 |
Cima Grande, Dolomites |
Italy |
Jonathan Stocking (16yr old) climbs the Brandler Hass route on the Cima Grande (E5 (7a+) |
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2009 |
European Youth Series & British Championship competitions |
Europe |
Jonathan Field competes in the EYS (Munich, Edinburgh & Slovenia) and the BBC (2nd place) & BLCC (3rd place) |
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2009 |
World Youth, European Youth & British competitions |
Europe |
Natalie Berry competes in 3 EYS competitions (4th place in Edinburgh) and World Youth comp in France (12th place); also British Lead comp (1st place) |
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2010 |
Jopuno |
Sikkim |
Geoff Cohen, Dick Isherwood, Steve kennedy, Bob Hamilton, Dave Ritchie and Paul Swinton climb on Lama Lamani and attempt west ridge of Jopuno |
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2010 |
European & World Youth Championships and Outdoor Sport Climbing |
Europe |
Eleanor Hopkins competes in EYS and the World Youth Championships, visits Malham in England, Ceuse in France and Dunkeld in Scotland ticking Hamish Teds (F7b+). |
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2010 |
Torugart-Too Expedition |
Kyrgistan |
Robert Taylor, John Proctor and Adam Russell from Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club made the 1st ascents of Mur Samir (5008m), Karyshkyr (4836m( and Pik False (4801m) |
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2010 |
Catalunya, Spain (and the odd trad crag in the UK) |
Europe |
Ross Kirkland travels to Santa Linya, Siruana and Rodellar to push his on-sighting grade to 8a |
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2010 |
Sport Climbing in Ceuse and Kalymnos & International Competitions |
Europe |
Jonathan Field Sport Climbing in Ceuse and Kalymnos and competing at World \Youth and European Youth Internationals |
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2010 |
Mixed rock and ice big remote mountains |
Antarctic |
Oliver Metherell joins the Alpine Club Expedition to the Antarctic Peninsular where they climbed 8 summits, five being first ascents and 1 a new route |
2010 Alpine Club Antarctic Expedition |
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2010 |
Exploratory mixed peaks |
Afghanistan |
Alan Halewood and Neal Gwyne make first ascents in The Little Pamir mountains of the Wakhan Corridor in NE Afghanistan |
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2011 |
Sport Climbing & Competitions |
Europe |
Jonathan Field competes in the Youth Open, BLCC and EYC in Kranj followed by a 2nd place in the GB Team Trials for 2012 |
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2011 |
Ice Climbing |
Morocco |
Oliver Metherell completes his Super7 Odessy with Andy Stokes & James Mehigan on a first ascent of Fountains Gully on Afella, Morocco igh Atlas |
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2011 |
Sport Climbing & Competitions |
Europe |
Rachel Carr trains in Siurana, Spain, followed by competitions: Leading Ladder (4th), SYCC (1st), BSCC (1st), SYBC (1st), EYC Kranj (23rd), Alien Bouldering (2nd), TCA Redpoint (1st) and Irish Bouldering Champs (2nd) |
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2011 |
Mixed rock & ice |
India |
Jonathan Bull climbs with the Imperial College expedition to Raru Valley, Ladakh and climbs 7 new routes reaching 4 summits up to 6276m |
Imperial College Raru Valley 2011 |
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2011 |
Sport Climbing |
Spain |
Ross Kirkland takes a 10 week trip round Spain to gain experience to climb 8b, followed by volunteering with the MCofS REAlrock Spanish Meet |
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2011 |
Sport Climbing |
Spain |
Scott Kier travels to Siurana, Spain to train and achieve his goal of leading 7a |
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2011 |
Mixed rock & ice |
Greenland |
Members of the SMC travel to the Staunings Alps and climb new routes of peaks around the Lang (Stor) Glacier |
SMC East Greenland Expedition 2011 |
