INDOOR REALrock

Learn to lead on Trad’ gear at Your Local Climbing Wall

Why is it important?

The MCofS has supported the development of climbing walls for 20 years through advice and support for funding applications to Lottery etc. One of the conditions of this funding support for the larger ‘Regional Centres’ has been the inclusion of at least one climbing route that allows the use of ‘natural gear’. Different manufacturers have developed different styles of natural gear placements, and they can be used in different ways.

Climbing in Scotland is predominantly traditional in style, using natural gear placed in cracks in the rock (also see the Parents' Guide), so if climbers new to the sport wish to transfer outdoors it is important that they learn the skills of placing such protection. The intention is to offer:

· training in the placement of natural gear without environmental variables such as loose rock and poor placements,

· training in the fast and efficient placement of the correct size of natural gear,

· training in the skills of energy conservation whilst placing gear,

· training in the psychology of climbing above natural gear.

Currently (start of 2010) there are 4 walls which offer this opportunity:
Alien Rock 1, Edinburgh; Transition Extreme, Aberdeen, Climb @ Inverness and The Ice Factor, Kinlochleven.

An Example: Inverness Climbing Wall   The wall in the Inverness Leisure Centre was the first in Scotland to incorporate trad’ lead routes. It has 3 such routes. The placements are as secure as bolts, offering a wide range of size protection in each protection slot. Detailed information about their use is posted at the wall and is reproduced here. At Inverness, due to the design of the placements, there is no additional protection from bolts and the routes must be led on natural gear only. Alternatively bolts on a neighboroughing route can be clipped with a second rope. This is the advice at the wall:   Advice for leading trad routes     Are you competent at placing leader placed protection? If not seek some proper advice or instruction.   First time leaders are advised to top rope the route and practice placing the gear and clipping the lead rope—practice makes perfect.   Before you try to lead without the top rope for protection we advise that you have your placements checked by an experienced climber Or qualified instructor and have any errors pointed out.   Novice leaders may wish to use a twin roped system to protect the climb One rope for the natural gear, and another rope to clip the bolts of a neighboring line. This may not be possible if trying to stick to one color so we advise that you just climb on any hold. This should make it easier to clip both bolts and trad gear.   Leading the trad routes with only leader placed protection is a high risk activity---consider these points before continuing   Are you capable of climbing the grade of route you are planning? Consider using a helmet for leader and belayer Don’t drop your gear Remember the gear you place is meant to stay in the cracks to prevent a ground fall if you fall off.   Make absolutely sure that the protection is going to stay and hold in the cracks in the event of a fall before you climb above it Double check all your protection placements Be careful not to lift your protection out with knees or feet as you climb   Make sure your belayer stands close into the wall at all times   Being able to successfully lead a graded route at the wall does not mean you will be able to lead a similar graded route outdoors.

Thread placement   Wide Slots accept larger sized nuts, Hex's and camming devices   Spikes for short thin slings   Thin Slots for small to medium wires (nuts / rocks etc)