Rock Climbing in Scotland
A Visitors Guide

ROCK CLIMBING GRADING SYSTEMs

The grading used in the UK to indicate the difficulty of a gear climb is at first sight very complicated. However, once familiar with its system it can be used to obtain a fairly accurate picture of the relative degrees of technical difficulty, seriousness (protection), sustained nature and strenuousness of the climbing.

There are two grades used in conjunction with each other:

  • Firstly a numerical grade which indicates the technical difficulty of the hardest move encountered on that climb (or pitch). These start at ‘1’ and increase to the highest technical grade attained today of grade ‘7’. They are then sub-divided into three for each number graded by ‘a’, ‘b’, and ‘c’.
  • Secondly, there is an overall descriptive grade ranging from Moderate to Extremely Difficult. This encompasses all aspects of the climb including the technical grade, the amount of protection, the quality of the rock, the degree of exposure and the seriousness of the climb including the options available for retreat. This overall grade gives a true indication of what to expect.

When the two grading systems are combined a detailed indication of what is in store is possible. The following table should help explain it a little better.

SCOTTISH GEAR CLIMBS (ADVENTURE CLIMBS)

SPORT CLIMBS  

BOULDERING

NUMERICAL (Technical) GRADE

OVERALL

GRADE

serious & poorly protected; or sustained & reasonable protection; or poor rock

average grade - good protection & good rock

short hard sections with excellent protection

Single grade taking into account difficulty and sustained nature only

Sherman

Fontainebleau (Font)

British Technical Grade

Moderate

VB

F3c

3a/3b

Diff (difficult)

VB

F4a

3b/3c

VD

V0-

F4b

3c/4a

Severe

4a

4b

4c

V0-

F4c

4a/4b

VS

4b

4c

5a

F5

V0

F5a

4b/4c

HVS

4c

5a

5b

F5+

V0+

F5b

5a/5b

E1

5a

5b

5c

F6a

V1

F5c

5b/5c

E2

5b

5c

6a

F6b

V2

F6a

5c

E3

5c

6a

6b

F6c

V3

F6b

5c/6a

E4

6a

6b

6a/6b

F7a

V4

F6c

6a/6b

E5

6a/6b

6b

6c

F7b

V5

F6c+

6b

E6

6b

6c

6c/7a

F7c

V6

F7a

6b/6c

E7

6b

6c/7a

7a

F8a

V7

F7a+

6c

E8

6c

6c/7a

7a

F8b

V8

F7b

6c

E9

6c

7a

7a

F8c

V8+

F7b+

6c

E10

7a

7a

F9a

V9

F7c

6c/7a

E11

7a

F9a+

V10

F7c+

6c/7a

V11

F8a

7a

V12

F8A+

7a/7b

V13

F8b

7b

 

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