Crag Code

The MCofS has developed a code of good practice on crags which is being issued as an Information Sheet. It is reproduced here and we hope members will take on board its advice, as well as letting us know if you have any comments on its content. Most of the code relies on a common sense approach. For convenience it has been split into several different headings, all interrelated and all equally important. A crag code In Scotland is needed in order to pre-empt difficulties that have already occurred in England. This has been on two fronts, one being erosion and the other concerning ethics. It is hoped that a code will clarify the wishes of the climbers in order that our crags, whether on low ground or in the mountains, remain as nearly unspoilt as can be possible; a primary concern is to ensure that the crag and its environment are used in a sensitive manner by climbers and that both the crag and the flora and fauna it might support are not damaged unnecessarily. Scottish climbing has always had an adventurous spirit and it is the wishes of climbers in general that this spirit remains intact for future generations. To that end it is hoped that this code can help assist climbers to keep that spirit alive.

1. Erosion
   • On the approach to a crag endeavour to use existing paths if they exist. This helps preserve the environment. On descent from the top, avoid short-cutting descent zigzags on existing paths and if no path exists then choose a line that avoids soft vegetation prone to erosion.
   • Do not deface the rock surface by chipping, arrows or other graffiti. The removal of loose blocks and flakes often happens by natural weathering through winter freeze / thaw. If you encounter loose blocks that can easily he dislodged by hand then do so with care.
   • Routes should not be marked by cairns, paint or scratches. It is far better to record them by an accurate route description for guide hooks.
   • If bottom roping is used ensure that both the crag edge and any trees used for belays are protected by suitable padding or slings long enough to drape over the edge. This ensures that rope grooves around trees or on soft rock can be avoided.
   • Try not to abseil down climbing routes if a better alternative is on offer.
2. Vegetation
   • Rockfaces can be home to rare species of plant and tree due to lack of grazing pressures. Flowers on crags make climbing more pleasurable and it is worth identifying the less common species in order that they can be protected.
   • Discretion should be used when gardening new routes with due consideration of the area in question. Landmarks such as trees and bushes must be left and care taken not to remove lichens which can be rare.
3. Birds
   • Many species of birds, their eggs and nests are protected by the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1951. It is an offence under this act to intentionally disturb them at their nests and climbers must be vigilant during the breeding season and adhere to any voluntary restrictions.
   • Avoiding disturbing nesting birds should be possible by climbing a distance away from a nest site. Many birds such as Peregrine Falcons become tolerant of climbers as long as direct disturbance does not occur and their presence in the area with spectacular flight displays offer added attractions.
   • If birds are disturbed, then you are too close and have to move farther away by law. Climbers can help the R.S.P.B. by keeping note of what type of birds nest on various crags a well as acting as a deterrent to potential egg thieves. {See the MCofS Information Paper "Nesting Birds and Climbers" for more detailed information and contact the MCofS office for updated voluntary restrictions on a yearly basis.
4. Sanitation
   • Follow the MCofS code on sanitation; avoid pollution either near water or on the crag itself.
5. Litter
   • Do not leave litter lying. Remove yours and, if necessary, other peoples. The crag environment does not need rubbish of any sort and this includes cigarette litter.
6. Climbing Ethics
   • Chalk should he used sparingly, particularly on overhanging rock that rarely gets wet. Chalk can cake on such places and is unsightly, whilst also destroying route finding initiative. The use of chalk is universal in Scotland and the UK, but the use of resin is not. The two do not mix and resin should therefore be avoided.
   • Holds should never be chipped, enlarged or otherwise made 'easier'. It is the responsibility of the first ascensionist to minimise rock damage when cleaning and to report the climb truthfully. Softer rocks should not be wire-brushed as this can enlarge holds and can be considered as cheating.
   • In-situ protection.
     Bolts - The use of bolts on Scottish rock was debated widely by Scottish climbers. The resulting Scottish Bolts Policy is a consensus view to act as a guide to their use. It states that bolt protection is acceptable in the production of sports climbs only, on low-lying crags of a certain type. Sea cliffs and mountain crags are regarded as venues for bolt-free adventurous climbing. [Further detail is contained in the Bolts Policy].
     Pegs - A minimalist approach should he adhered to, with a presumption against their use for belays or runners on first ascents. A pure ascent is one that uses only natural, removable protection. If it feels too bold for you on natural protection only, then consider leaving the line for future climbers to do in a pure style. Placing pegs during repeat ascents of established routes is entirely inappropriate. They should not be left at all on sea cliffs as salt in Seaspray causes rapid erosion.
     Slings and Wires - Leaving these types of protection in-situ offers only short-term protection. Tape slings deteriorate rapidly in ultra-violet light and cannot be relied upon. Wires hammered into cracks corrode to destruction within two years and can prevent further protection being placed.
7. Group Use
   • Large groups under instruction can create a monopoly situation, denying routes to others. This is true both climbing and in abseiling. Large groups are best split into several smaller ones. Groups should ideally choose crags or routes not likely to be popular and in particular avoid classic climbs, though this is admittedly not seen as always possible. Try not to overuse one venue and vary your selection.
   • In general, abseiling should be confined to areas of crag that are not usually climbed on or to crags that do not provide good routes. Many classic climbs have been damaged by repeated abseiling. Try to avoid sites with steep grass slopes at the top which, even after limited use, erode and send mud down the routes below.
   • Those wishing to lead a route should be given priority over top-roping or abseiling.
8. Transport
   • In the Highlands public transport is erratic requiring the use of a car. Climbers should be encouraged to share transport if visiting the same crag and to park in areas that do not form obstructions. An experimental car-share scheme advertised on the MCofS website will be available in the future.
   • In lowland areas where public transport may be more plentiful, then its use should be encouraged.
9. Responsibilities
   • Climbing is a hazardous activity with a risk of personal injury or death. Climbers should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. No liability can be attached to landowners for injuries received due to a climbers own or other climbers activity. The legal principle of volenti non fit injura, 'participating in full knowledge of the hazards', applies to all dangerous sports.
   • All climbers owe a duty of care in Civil Law towards their neighbours. This means being aware of any action which may affect a fellow climber and doing everything 'reasonable' to prevent injury that may arise out of that action.
   • Climbing Etiquette encompasses common-sense behaviour at a crag to help cut down the risk of injury to fellow climbers. It includes avoiding: Abseiling down a line whilst others are climbing up it; dislodging blocks from the crag or the ground at the top (or dropping items of gear) onto others below; creating an unnecessary level of noise; climbing across or above other climbers creating a risk of injury to the other party should either fall off.
   • Climbing in quarries has its own particular delights, not least the often unstable nature of the rock. Quarry owners are subject to the Health and Safety at Work Act (Quarries), which binds them to prevent accidental injury to the public. This usually means erecting safety notices and fencing around the perimeter. Climbers ignoring such notices do so at their own risk under the volenti non fit injura principle.
   • There is no substitute for experience and novices should seek advice from those more experienced. The MCofS has detailed information about safety, courses, and duty of care and liability.
10. Winter Climbing
    • It is the view of the overwhelming majority of Scottish climbers that bolts are not to be used in winter ascents in Scotland.
    • It is common practice to place and remove ones own peg runners and belays on a winter ascent. Repeated use of this sort will ultimately damage the rock and the use of pegs should therefore be kept to a minimum with all options for natural gear utilised first. It should be pointed out that camming devices are of limited use in winter and are useless in iced cracks.
    • During the winter ascent of summer rock routes there should be a presumption against the use of pegs. All attempts to find protection on such routes should mimic the summer equivalent.
    • Summer routes that are of good quality and in particular classic climbs, often have little vegetation or even ice. They should not be climbed in winter unless fully coated with snow and ice in order to prevent damage to the underlying rock.
    • Mixed routes are best climbed when the turf cover is well frozen and unlikely to be dislodged.