Kids Climbing Features
The following articles are written by children from across Scotland who are members of the MCofS. Here they share their climbing experiences. Edited versions of these articles are reproduced in the MCofS magazine, the Scottish Mountaineer.
If you would like to have your articles featured on these pages or in the magazine please contact the Development Officer Kevin Howett on kev@mcofs.org.uk for information.
24. Geek Squad visit Arbroath by Scott Gowens
After the very sucessful Scottish Youth Bouldering Championship at Transition Extreme in Aberdeen on Saturday 24th September, members of the Scotland South Team took a stop-off in Angus, meeting up with others and Neil McGeachy and spent the Sunday sampling the somewhat unique Arbroath Sea Cliffs in the stunning autumn weather. These short steep sandstone crags run north up the coast from Arbroath and have been sport bolted over the past decade. There are details in the SMC North East Outcrops Guide and on a dedicated website Arbroath Sport Climbs. Scott Gowens describes how he spent his birthday climbing!
23. Injuries, Ceuse and the fight back to climb 8a by Natalie Berry
On a trip to Ceuse in France earlier this year, Natalie Berry, probably Scotland’s most successful competition climber, managed to red-point F8a despite recovering from a finger injury which had meant no routes climbed for eight months! A regime of bouldering on slopers and big holds up steep walls had obviously helped. After the first two weeks she ticked Petit Tom F8a. Then, within the space of a week and climbing with sheer aggression and determination, she sent Carte Blanche, Bourinator and Colonettes, all F8a. Finally, her new aggressive approach saw Dolce Vita F8a+ climbed before heading home. She puts this down to hot weather, Tiger Balm and the perfect rock of Ceuse.
22. First Scottish Female on-sight of E5 by Jessica Mccaskey
In August this year (2011) Jessica Mccaskey on-sighted a steep and strenuous E5 (Shapeshifter Direct) at the north coast sea cliff of Rosehearty. There have been several women on-sight E5 previously in Scotland, including April Marr, but this may well be the first home-grown native to reach this heady grade. Jessica is based out of Edinburgh and her local wall is Alien Rock where she trains regularly. She attended past MCofS REALrock sesisons which ignited her enthusiasm for trad climbing. She has since led numerous E4's and her experience has enabled her to coach MCofS REALrock indoor sessions at Alien Rock last year. She is also current MCofS Youth Climbing Champion in the 17-19yr category.
21. Sun Rock for Team Scotland by Neil McGeachy
In April 2011 the MCofS supported a meet for young climbers to Spain. 18 children along with one of their parents, made the trip out to Siurana and Margalef for a weeks climbing on the sun-kissed limestone of one of the world's best climbing venues.The meet was organised by Neil McGeachy, who also acted as one of the coaches, along with Robbie phillips, Mark McGowan, Gary Vincent and Scottish ex-pats living in the area, Tom Bolger and Lynne Malcolm. Almost all the children managed to red-point 7a and the parents all got into the holiday spirit, either helping with some climbing, or organising evening activities. The event was part of the MCofS's operational plan for sport development.
20. Malta Deep Water Soloing by Avril Gall
GB Team member Rachel Carr and family make a trip to Malta after the Youth Open Competition. Rachel's mum, Avril said "After the rotten weather we finally decided to book a holiday. Rachel’s pre-requisites – short flight from Edinburgh with some climbing – brought us to Malta so after booking I googled and found the Malta Climbing Club, got in touch and asked if we could join them for a deep water soloing trip in August. Their president was so chuffed he used Rachel's visit to promote the sport to youngsters in Malta (lunch with the Malta Tourist Authority!!!). Anyway there's a piece on the MCC website as well". There appears to be a lot of development on the island and its a perfect holiday destination worth checking out.
19. Youth Colors Festival in Austria
Young Scots climbers Angus Davidson, William Bosi and Gariella Stewart compete at the 9th Youth Colors Festival held at Imst in Austria. Three other young climbers from England also attended this open category competition. This year it was held on the amazing outdoor tower.
18. Spain and Flashing my first 8a by Ross Kirkland (2010)
Ross talks about climbing his first F8a whilst on a five week trip to Spain in May. Climbing with Neil McGeachy and with advice and support from Alan Cassidy, Tom Bolger and Lynne Malcolm - expats living out there, he was one a several Scottish kids to make the trip.
17. Island Fling by Jessica McCaskey (2010)
Jessica describes a trip to the Outer Hebridean Island of Lewis this summer. Whilst the rest of the UK was basking in sunshine in May, her aim to climb one of the best and most serious sea cliff routes on the island (The prozack Link [E4] on The Screaming Geo) was thwarted by rain. She did however, sample the best Lewisian Gneiss at Dalbeg and other venues managing to climb E2 despite the wet! Read more about Jessica's climbing from an article in Scottish Mountaineer in February 2009: A Rising Star
16. Completing my ASBO by Robert Mackenzie (2010)
Robert Maceknzie has been a GB Team member for six years competing internationally at 20 competitions and has been past Scottish & British Champion and the winner of the 2010 Skymaster. However, he does like a little bit of REALrock and has climbed to E5/6 particularly in the north west. In August 2010 he succeded on a project on a secret western island (Tanera Beag) to establish ASBO his first E7 7a. Read his account of the first ascent of this awesome sea cave and see the video below.
15. Malham Climbing Trip by Robbie Phillips (2010)
Robbie reports on the Quickdraw Climbing Club's annual meet to Malham and a follow-up coaching session for the Scottish contingent of the British Team the same weekend as the British Bouldering Championships. Taking time out coaching and trying hard Malham repoints he talks about what inspires him in climbing.
14. Glasgow Academy Greenland Expedition 2009 by Allen Farrington, Olivia Mason, Jane Rutherford and Rachel Turner (2010)
A school expedition do three first ascents in a remote part of Eastern Greenland: 'Academy Peak', 'Tiraluin' and 'Glasgow Peak'. See also the Expedition Report
13. My First Alpine Summer by Greg Boswell (2010)
Greg describes a first Alpine season including ascents of: East Ridge of Abeni Flue [TD], 3rd Spur of the Aiguille du Midi [ED], Voie Madier, Aiguille Debona [TD], The Contamine Route of the South Face of the Midi [TD+].
12. The SkyMasters Challenge by Robert Mackenzie (2010)
Robert competes at the Sky Masters event in the Birmingham NEC and beats all comers for an exciting finale: see the video!
11. World Ice Climbing Competitions by Steven Addison (2009)
Steven Addison from Inverness becomes the youngest climber to compete in the Ice Masters World Cup in 2008 and the Ice World Cup in 2009, where he meets up with Tim Emmet for some on-the-spot coaching.
10. Reiff by Ross Kirkland (2009)
Ross visits Reiff in the north west of Scotland: Westering Home [E1], Elastic Collision [E3], Seal Song [E3] and Executioner's Crack [E2]
9. An 'Old Man' Adventure by Ruairidh Mackenzie (2009)
Ruairidh Mackenzie takes a large group of Inverness parents and kids up the Old Man of Stoer.
8. The Brandler Hass: Dolomite Rock by Adam Hughes and Jonathan Stocking (2009)
Jonathan Stocking gets to grips with the awesome Brandler-Hass route on the Tre Cime with Neil McGeachy and Adam Hughes.
7. On a Shoestring by Greg Boswell (2009)
Greg Boswell describes his descent in to climbing bum with trips to Pabbay (The Guga [E5], Prophesy of Drowning [E2], Sugar Cane Country [E3]), Glen Nevis (Crackattack [E3]), Gordale Scar, Yorkshire (Face Route [E3]), Newtyle Quarry (Fast & Furios [D10+]), Cairngoms (White Magic [VII/7) and Rujkan, Norway (Lipton [WI7] and Fission [M10]).
6. Malham for Beginners by Neil McGeachy (2009)
A trip to Malham Cove for the Scottish South / British Team Members with coaches Neil McGeachy and Neil Buzby.
5. North East Esoterica - Training for the Brandler Hass by Neil McGeachy (2009)
Neil McGeachy takes Jonathan Stocking to the horror that is Earnsheugh near Aberdeen in preparation for an assult on the Dolomites with Adam Hughes: Necromancer [E5] and Prehistoroc Monster [E5] become Jonnys first E5 on-sight.
4. Lost in France - Céüse for the uninitiated (2008)
Neil McGeachy and Neil Buzby visit Ceuse with some climbing families for a summer holiday. The kids tell their stories: Jonathan Stocking, Ross Kirkland and Paul Williamson.
3. The Climbing Family MacAskill’s (2008)
Kevin Howett visits the MacAskill family (Ruairdh, Ellen, Dougie and Diane) from Inverness who were featured in The Adventure Show: dry-tooling, competitions and bouldering with Dave Macleod.
2. Livin’ the Dream by Robbie Phillips (2007)
Robbie is in search for F7c+ and visits Kalymnos in Greece (Marci Marc [7c] red-point, Zawinal Syndicate [7c+] on-sight) and Ceuse in France (Mirage [7c+]), but is more taken by the scene.
1. Climbing Diary of a British Team Member by Jonathan Stocking (2007)
Jonathan tours Wales with Neil McGeachy and Neil Buzby: Gogarth (Freebird [E1], The Moon [E3]); Vivien Quarry (Comes the Dervish [E2]); The Cromlech (Left Wall [E3], Ressurection [E4]).
