Sports Development News
- Scottish Competition Scene
- BRYCS 2003 Report
- Young Scottish Climbers Hit The World Stage
- BRYCS 2004
- MCofS Realrock Sessions 2004
- The Winter Ethics Debate
Scottish Competition Scene
By Kevin Howett
Indoor Competition climbing was embraced by the UK climbing community in the 1980’s. The BMC has successfully arranged a British Series for lead and bouldering rock ever since, but alas, there were no facilities big enough in Scotland to allow for a round up here (not quite British then!). Finally, this changed. The opening of Alien Rock 2’s bouldering cave allowed the British Bouldering Competition (BBC) Series to hold an event here for the first time.
Then this past year has opened up even more venues so a lead competition could be held and we are now truly on the map for future competitions. The first round of this winter’s A5 BBC was held at the newly opened Adventure Centre Ratho – our National Rock Climbing Centre. There followed the first ever World Cup event here too, and the final to boot!
Last year Glasgow Climbing Centre hosted the First Mountain Equipment Indoor Dry-Tooling Competition (a world first?) and the opening of the Regional Centre at Kinlochleven, The Ice Factor, saw big indoor ice established for real in the UK. The second Dry-Tooling comp followed, again at Glasgow, as well as the first ever UK speed and technical ice competition at Kinlochleven.
Just as things were looking up, news that UKSport’s funding to the BMC for competitions and the UK Team was withdrawn because of poor world rankings by UK climbers, seemed inappropriate as Scotland’s Malcolm Smith ranked 3rd in the world’s Bouldering Championships. Sportscotland’s support for climbers through the Lottery’s Achieving Excellence programme has also ceased, with climbing being regarded as low priority. There is no doubt that Scottish climbers, young and older, are getting better at this competition thing. With Ratho and other venues now available in Scotland they should only get better, but will our top athletes get the support they need to be able to get those better rankings? ‘Chicken and egg’ comes to mind. In any event, competitions still appear to be great fun for everyone involved and are an integral part of our climbing scene and deserve the recognition by Sports Council’s as much as other athletic sports.
British Regional Youth Competition Series 2003 Report
Scotland North Team
By Robert Mackenzie
A competitor
All North Scotland's three rounds were held at Climb Caledonia, Inverness.They were a lot of fun for everyone from competitors to route setters.Many thanks to the Sport Centre management team for continuingto support youth competition climbing. Ahuge, huge thanks to TISO Inverness for again donating £500 worth of prizes.
So we were all set to travel to Ratho.... oops make that Wales.My dad produced grey hairs overnight thinking of the 1261 mile round trip. He refused to go unless we promised to hire a big shiny car to travel in.The Welsh International Climbing Centre, South Wales, one giant leap for North Scotland's youth team, one small step for dads new MPV.
The Welsh wall was awesome, nearly twice the height of our wall; with funky artwork. Their bouldering room was cool with lots of roofs.The BMC route setting team did their usual perfect job and set very challenging routes.The competition with 180 young climbers ranlike clockwork but still took ten hours, ha, ha!
My young brother Dylan did really well in his first national final finishing 6th place in the 7-9 yrs; well done bro.Anna Wells finished 12th in the girls 13-15 yrs and was our best placed girl.I struggled with some awesome young climbers to finish 5th in the 10-12 yrs boys.
Cheers to Kevin Howett and his boys Niall and Rory for coming all that way to support the Scottish teams. Thanks to the Travel Lodge for putting up with our rowdy parties (sorry about the food fight) when everyone let their hair down a wee bit, it's definitely the best attitude for travelling any distance.I'm looking forward to next year already whenthe BRYCS finals will be held at RATHO...yeeee...haaaaa.
I've been to Ratho a couple of times now......amazingly AWESOME.I'm sure I can speak for all Scottish climbers, young and not so young, whenI say thanks anda huge well done to all involved in the giant project. I'm proud to have what has to be one of the biggest and best climbing walls in the world here at home.I'm sure Scottish youth climbing will benefit.MCofS -Good job guys.Here’s to 2004.
Scotland South Team
By Dave Berry
Area Youth Co-ordinator
The BRYCS 2003 final at the WICC, Mid Glamorgan, on 27th September 2003 was the best event we have been to in our (the Berrys) three-year involvement in junior competition climbing. Although hastily re-arranged to the WICC, it was extremely well organised with excellent problem and route setting and some great competition.
Scotland South as a Team, with a 7th place this year (out of 10), did not reach the giddy heights (no pun intended) that they did last year when they came 2nd. The closure of Hadrian’s Wall in Falkirk and the resultant impact on some junior climbers training being a major factor. Hopefully, this will be resolved this year with the addition of Avertical World (Dundee) and Ratho (Edinburgh). Despite this, there were still some fine individual performances and all showed a lot of grit and determination!
In the 7-9 category Ella Shimmin did well in her first BRYCS final and Mathew Oliver did particularly well with an 8th place in the boys with Jonathan Field also showing promise.
In the 10-12 girls category Lianne Smith and Natalie Berry battled it out for the honours all day with Charlie Davies (Midlands) and Beth Monks (Peak). At the end of normal competition there was nothing to separate them (they had all topped out on all the routes and boulder problems)! There then followed a quite amazing top rope super final, under isolation conditions, of a hard technical overhanging route in which Charlie and Beth both reached the same hold and drew just ahead of Lianne, with Lianne just pipping Nat by a single move. All four girls were truly awesome to watch!
In the 10-12 boys category Deb Banerji did really well after his Australian rest from climbing. John McKenna and Ross Kirkland were also having a good final.
In the 13-15 girls category Aline Kirkland had an excellent competition with a 7th place. Jennifer Hutton and Alison Rhodes also climbed well.
In the 13-15 boys category Peter Johnstone showed great potential in coming 14th in his first BRYCS final. David Lambert and Richard Field also climbed well in what was an incredibly talented field.
Many thanks to MCofS/BMC, Avertical World (Dundee), Glasgow Climbing Centre, Alien Rock (Edinburgh), Tiso, our parent volunteers and especially all the competitors for their support and effort during the rounds of this years BRYCS!
Thanks too to the hosts, organisers, volunteers, competitors and parents involved in a great BRYCS final. I think that with the advent of Ratho we should have some pretty strong entrants in the coming years BRYCS!
Young Scottish Climbers Hit the World Stage
By Kevin Howett
The BMC support the British Climbing Competition Squad for adults and juniors. Until last year they received funding from UK Sports Council, but now funding comes from various sources including sponsorship, profits from BMC shows such as the Birmingham NEC event and from BMC funds.
There are two levels of participation; all Squad members gain coaching help, advice and training sessions. Full Team Members are selected from the squad, to represent the British Team, and they additionally gain help with expenses to attend world competitions. The squad is selected from competition results and performance at ‘Trials’. Past Scots climbers selected have included Cubby Cuthbertson, but currently Malcolm Smith, Sadie Renwick, Gary Vincent and Roddy Mackenzie are part of the adult squad. Last year Trials were held in May and December. Climbers were put though a series of punishing sessions with the top coaches in the country. Four one-hour sessions involved constant assessment of movement and style, power and endurance. These young athletes are allastounding climbers and all would be worthy of a place in the squad and the coaches had a hard task trying to decide who will make the British youth team.
Nat Berry (aged 12) wasinvited onto the Junior Competition Climbing Team after her performance at the May Trials. Nat is made up - she is the youngest ever British Junior Team member. It has been a burning ambition of Nat's to become a member of the team since her first BRYCS round in 2001! She hopes to successfully represent Britain in future internationalcompetitions.
Aline Kirkland (13) was invited to join the junior squad after climbing at the May trials. She was extremely pleased to be accepted on the squad. She has been trying to climb out doors as much as possible and spent part of last summer climbing in California with Chris Sharma!
Lianne Smith (aged 13) from West Linton has been climbing for two yearsmainly at Alien Rock, Edinburgh and now also at the Adventure Centre, Ratho. She is currently the Alien Rock junior female bouldering champion, Scottish junior female climbing champion (Inverness climbfest) and came 3rd in the recent BRYCS after a superfinal. She is now a member of the British Squad. Outdoors she has top-roped up to E1 grade mainly at local quarries and outcrops and has experienced the joys of sandstone in Northumberland (Kyloe) and granite slab climbing in Glen Etive, seconding Hammer (HVS).
The trials in December also saw Robert Mackenzie from Inverness being asked to join the junior squad. Robert (12) was climbing very well on the day. He has led many E1’s this summer and managed a flashed ascent of Dracula (E3) at Duntelchaig. He also put up a new route here in August (MuMMy E15b), so is well and truly grounded in the ‘trad’ stuff as well.
We wish them all the best for the coming years competitions.
BRYCS 2004
Scotland has two regions competing as teams in BRYCS. This year we welcome The Ice Factor at Kinlochleven as a much needed venue for the North Region. Avertical World in Dundee will again be participating as a venue in the South Region and the grand final will definitely be held at the awesome Adventure Centre Ratho (The National Rock Climbing Centre) on the outskirts of Edinburgh.
Competitors can only compete and score points at their home regional heats of three competitions. The categories are for girls and boys in 3 age groups from 7yrs to 15yrs. The top three in each category will have the chance to enter the final as a Regional Team to compete with the best young climbers in the UK.
Application forms for each region are available from the individual venues and from MCofS. MCofS Youth Members and families on benefit are able to get a discount.
North Scotland Region:
- May 22nd Climb Caledonia, at Inverness Sports Centre
Tel: 01463 667 505 - June 12th The Ice Factor, Kinlochleven
Tel: 01855 831 100 - June 26th Climb Caledonia, at Inverness Sports Centre.
Tel: 01463 667 505
South Scotland Region:
- May 8th at Glasgow Climbing Centre.
Tel: 0141 427 9550 - May 22nd at Alien Rock, Edinburgh.
Tel: 0131 552 7211 - June 12th at Avertical World, Dundee.
Tel: 01382 201 901
Final:
- September 25th
The National Rock Climbing Centre, Ratho, near Edinburgh
Tel: 0131 333 6333
MCofS REALrock taster sessions 2004
An Introduction to rock climbing outdoors
For young climbers aged 7 to 17.
Last year we held a few sessions for young climbers who were active indoors but wished to get out on to the real thing. Volunteer, John Orr of the Paisley Hill Walking Club did a lot of background work to ensure we were operating under best practice with children, with risk assessments and volunteers.
John and friends held several evening and weekend sessions in the central belt, culminating in a mountain weekend held at Laggangarbh involving scrambling on Buachaille Etive Mor and climbing in Glen Nevis. The SMC kindly gave us the hut free of charge and we are indebted to them for their support for the venture.
This years sessions are for young climbers who have experience of climbing indoors at climbing walls, either top-roped or leading, and who wish to gain some experience from other adult climbers on outside crags. They are NOT suitable for beginners.
Sessions will be structured to cater for the individuals requirements, either simply to get used to climbing on a top-rope, or as a ‘second’ on real rock, or to learn how to place protection as a ‘lead’ climber. It is recommended that up to 3 sessions are booked in order to get the most from the event. The sessions are taken by MCofS member volunteers with many years experience in climbing. Parents should note that they are not qualified as instructors but the MCofS, as the governing body of the sport, is happy with their abilities, and all venues and activities have been risk assessed. Parents are asked to attend the session, even if they do not climb.
For full parental information about the sessions contact the MCofS Office. Final dates and venues will be on our website and in June Scottish Mountaineer.
Details are yet to be fully confirmed but will probably be the following:
Venues: Aberdeen / Inverness / Edinburgh / Glasgow / Perth
Dates: Scheduled for the months of June & July. Exact dates are to be confirmed on application – check the website.
Cost: First Session £20 (includes MCofS membership) Each session thereafter £10.
Equipment: Some technical equipment will be available during the session, but if attendees have their own harness, rock shoes, belay device, helmet and rope, then they should bring them along.
Adult Helpers Required for 2004
We would like to expand the sessions for 2004 and are looking for more adult help, particularly in the Edinburgh and Glasgow areas. You need to be competent climbers prepared to undergo a SCRO check and be familiar with a suitable climbing venue. If you are prepared to get involved, contact Kevin Howett at the MCofS office.
Winter Ethics Debate
A brief summary by Kevin Howett
The debate advertised in the last issue of Scottish Mountaineer held at The Ice Factor opening week was mainly attended by activists, though few of the detractors of Dry-tooling attended. John Mackenzie chaired the speakers with Chris Cartwright starting the ball rolling with a detailed comparison of the styles of recent past hard climbs, concluding that the way forward was for harder winter-only lines in an on-sight traditional style. Dave McLeod saw that progress has always included the winter ascents of established rock climbs, but that there was room for all styles including sport-style. Scott Muir saw the development of dry-tooling as being very different to Scottish winter and only being practiced on presently unclimbed and otherwise poor potential summer climbing venues. He agreed with Dave that there was room for the development of winter venues climbed in ‘winter’ conditions but in sport-style. I saw there being two concerns; firstly the ascent of winter-only lines in unfrozen conditions potentially damaging rare plants, and secondly the current trend by some activists of making ascents of quality summer rock climbs causing damage to otherwise clean rock through use of pegs and scratching of crampons and axes which would take away from the enjoyment of the route in summer.
No complete consensus was reached, although all did agree that there was space for sport-style mixed venues such as the lower tier of Beinn Udlaidh; that dry-tooling was not a threat as long as activists kept off established routes and quality rock venues and that rare plant information should be sought and distributed by MCofS.
Fuller discussion in relation to the present MCofS Guidance on winter climbing will be covered in a future issue of Scottish Mountaineer. Meanwhile keep your comments flooding in to kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk.