
The stunning documentary style film depicting the story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates climbing epic on Siula Grande in Peru has won the prestigious ‘Best British Film’ award at the BAFTA’s. Not only is this a triumph for Producer and Director, Kevin MacDonald (whose previous filming accolade is an Oscar for a documentary about the 1972 Munich Olympic killings), but also it is the first time a climbing film that accurately depicts climbing (unlike the previous offerings from Stallone et al) has ever reached a mainstream audience.
The film was previewed in Scottish Mountaineer Issue 21 and if you missed it at the cinemas, then you now have the chance to buy it on DVD (certificate 15).
The most famous and talked about incident in the whole story is of course the ‘cutting of the rope’. A highly symbolic action, that can be seen as a severing of the bond of reliance and partnership between two climbers, but which ultimately saved both climbers lives. Whilst re-enacting the moment for the film, neither Joe nor Simon could remember exactly which kind of knife was used, though they did know it was (inevitably) a Swiss Army Knife! They used a ‘Recruit’ model of the knife during the re-enactment for the film.
Scottish Mountaineer readers have the chance of receiving a Swiss Army Recruit knife (worth £11) AND a copy of the DVD, both FREE courtesy of Victorinox. Simply answer the following question:
Which model of the Swiss Army Knife range do winners of the Scottish Mountaineer Bivi Talk ‘Star Letter’ receive?
Answers in a letter or postcard please to ‘The Editor’, Scottish Mountaineer, “Touching the Void Competition”, The MCofS, The Old Granary, West Mill Street, Perth PH1 5QP, with your full home address details. The first 10 out of the hat will win.
The selection by ‘Trail’ magazine of “The High Mountains” by Irvine Butterfield as the book that hill walkers ought to have on their bookshelf, saw a revival of interest in what, for many, has become known as “The Bible”. This has prompted publisher Baton Wicks to reissue the volume, retaining its classic format, enhanced by a new dust jacket. Amendments to the details of the changes to the Munros Tables that have taken place since the previous reprint are included, and for those who also take an interest in the “furth of Scotland” peaks, there is news of an additional top on the eastern round of MacGillycuddy’s Reeks.
In addition, after a long absence from the shelves “The High Mountains Companion” is also to be reissued and has been revamped to include stalking information, with details as up to date as is known courtesy of the MCofS. For those seeking budget accommodation brief details of the many bunkhouses in proximity to the Munros and other 3,00ft peaks are also included. This provides an ideal access and accommodation guide to the aspirant Munroist.
Friday 26th– Sunday 28th November
Bonar Hall, Dundee
This year’s guests and films include:
See http://www.dundeemountainfiilmfestival.org.uk/
Contact: mail@dundeemountainfilmfestival.org.uk
Saturday 9th to Saturday 16th October 2004
Opening ceremony by Cameron McNeish
This year’s festival is more ambitious than the previous ones, with a greater diversity of walks on offer, with many being inclusive of children (it is, after all, during the school Autumn holiday!). The events programme includes a full range of walks and associated activities including:
For more information see http://www.droverstryst.co.uk/ or call Crieff Tourist Information Centre, Tel: 01764 652 578.
By Kevin Howett
Last year Scottish Mountaineer reported on the ‘MidgeEater’ device from Calor Gas, a gas powered midge killer for use in hotel and pub gardens. Obviously this is a localised, and sedentary solution to the midge menace. For walkers and climbers, wild campers and tourists, the best bet is still a Midge repellent.
The main active ingredient for many repellents is DEET (diethyltoluamide), which has been identified as causing toxic side effects, including neurological and cardiovascular toxicity, dermatitis, allergic reactions and in extremely rare cases, death. The MCofS Information Sheet “Health in the Hills” recommends children are not subject to concentrations of more than 20% as they seem more susceptible, particularly from inhaling spray-on versions.
However, leading health authorities such as the US Centre for Disease Control and prestigious publications including the New England Journal of Medicine have recognised DEET as the most effective repellent active ingredient available.
In the USA, because of the dramatic increased incidence of West Nile Virus and the alarming spread of tick borne encephalitis in some parts of Europe, there has been some positive re-assessment of the use of DEET in children. The US Environment Protection Agency has determined that when label instructions are followed, all concentrations of DEET repellents can be used by people of all ages upwards of 2. The American Academy of Paediatrics now advise that most children can use DEET products with concentrations as high as 30%.
As a result one company (Ben’s®) has now launched sachets containing wipes impregnated with 30% DEET for use by children.
More ‘natural’ options are still being investigated. Researchers at Aberdeen University have identified a chemical produced by those people who seem to be less susceptible to being bitten, which masks their attractiveness to midges. The project is being funded by Scottish Enterprise and it is reported that it could lead to a commercial product in five years!
In the meantime the general advice would seem to be to use any repellent cautiously and minimally, and wipes may provide a better way of doing this. For further information about biting insects and repellents get a copy of the MCofS Information Sheet (Members please order using the Information Service Order Form on page ?? - send a 2nd Class SAE; non-members a 2nd Class SAE and £1 payment).
By Tim Catterall
In February I had a serious accident while in the Fort William area. After climbing a winter route on Stob Coire nan Lochan I attempted to Paraglide back to the car, only things didn’t quite go to plan and to cut a long story short I crashed and tumbled down the mountain. After receiving help from a friend and several mountaineering instructors I was rescued by Glencoe MRT and was airlifted to the Belford Hospital in Fort William with suspected head and spinal injuries.
I was admitted to A&E and assessed before being transferred to the high dependency unit for two days where I received excellent round the clock care from a very committed, skilled team. After this initial period it was thought I could be best cared for by the specialist spines unit in The South Glasgow General Hospital. Because of the high levels of care and expertise that I received after my accident I am continuing to make a speedy recovery from what could have been life-threatening injuries and I will always be very grateful for the treatment I received there.
While I was recovering in hospital I heard about a proposed closure/downgrading of Fort William A&E. As you can probably imagine I feel very strongly about this as I feel a transfer directly after my accident could have caused paralysis. Being right on the doorstep of the popular walking and climbing areas of Ben Nevis and Glen Coe means the thought of no local A&E is a frightening one.
Highland NHS are proposing to downgrade both Fort William and Oban Hospitals to GP-lead community hospitals with no out of hours or weekend accident and emergency cover, or alternatively to make one a 24hr A&E hospital and the other 'sub acute'. In other words if you had a heart attack or an accident in the evening or at the weekend you would be transported direct from the scene to Inverness or Glasgow (or Oban?) with no 'stabilisation' facility in between. If your emergency is close to Fort William this would add a significant time risk to any journey and treatment.
I feel people will die if this goes ahead, both climbers and locals. Don’t let it happen, Please sign the petition on the action group website at: http://www.tbag.org.uk/
8th, 9th & 10th October
This follows on from the success of the first EMFF, which took place in October 2003 and was enjoyed by over 500 people who enjoyed the combination of fast paced films, enthralling speakers and striking exhibitions.
In a very close competition, Scottish "Ssno Boulder" Paul Raistrick won the inaugural 'Best Film Award' for his incredible short film, "Pushing Winter". As well as the films, guest lecturers Scott Muir and Jamie Andrew entertained the audience with their very different tales of adventure.
The photography exhibitions by Cubby and Nick Williams proved very popular, as did the display by the John Muir Trust. Thanks go to the 2003 festival sponsors - Tiso, JMT, Wilderness Scotland and The Caledonian Brewery - and also to Nevis Range and Pocket Mountains for the raffle prizes. These helped to raise over £750 for the Mountain Rescue for Committee for Scotland and JMT.
The 2004 festival moves to a larger venue, the George Square Lecture Theatre in the city centre. With a huge screen in place, tiered seating and capacity of 500 people, it is the perfect venue to enjoy exciting new films. There will be evening and afternoon sessions on the Saturday and Sunday. Many films have already been submitted, ensuring that the quality of the final selection will be even higher than last year. Top speakers have been lined up, including Andy Kirkpatrick, Andrew Greig, and Liz Duff, who will give a lecture about Scottish climbing legend, Mal Duff. Other big names have been approached and will be added to the line up soon – see http://www.edinburghmountainff.com/ for details.
The EMFF is still looking for more films for this year’s festival – see the website for details. A photography competition is also being run – details also on the website. Tickets for the festival will be available from early September from Tiso stores and Alien Rock climbing centres.