Feature

Tower Ridge Revisited

In June this year there was a special ascent of Tower Ridge by Richard Lamb and friends. In the winter of 2001, Richard and his climbing partner, Neil Stoodley, fell off the ridge and as a result Richard lost his lower right leg, all the fingers of his right hand and half of each of all the fingers of his left hand. Neil was killed in the fall.

Richard tells the story of his return to Tower Ridge:-

The Ascent:
The climbing party set off from the forestry gate, nine in all (Mick, my eldest sister Cathy and husband Keith, Andy, Rob, Chlöe, Dan, and Jan), reaching the CIC hut for a hot-brew and butty break at about 1230. I made a speech to the group about my reasons, both personal and otherwise, for re-climbing Tower Ridge, and set off for Douglas Gap. Drawing nearer to the start of the route made me pensive though not fearful – every climb I’ve done made me feel this way!

After the steep first pitch at Douglas Gap was dealt with (with much joy…), we climbed the ridge quickly - well, as fast as an amputee is able to! I had to stop several times to remove my prosthesis to clear the sweat away and dry the leg. Failure to do so can result in the leg falling off! Not something to look forward to, watching my prosthesis spiral off into the mist lying in Coire na Ciste. I felt a growing sense of peace the further Mick and I climbed. The climbing was accompanied by a few brief brew stops, the most memorable just before the Little Tower – much banter and craic with Mick, Andy and Rob.

We ascended the Great Tower and pressed on to Tower Gap, where Neil and I had fallen in 2001. Mick was very much aware of how tense I was, and gave much encouragement. He set up a belay at the boulder overlooking the gap, and looked over the edge and into the Gap. A minute passed, where I have to admit I was afraid. I pulled myself together and climbed into the gap, setting up a belay for Mick to follow and cross onto the final section of the ridge. I gazed into the mist below, in Glover’s Chimney, the route we had fallen down. No flashbacks, no demons came out to play. Time to start the rest of my life…..

The Summit:
A kiss and hug from Chlöe at the far side of Tower Gap spurred me on to the summit plateau, wherewe met a group of old climbing and hill-walking friends. Paul Byron, whom I’ve known for 15 years and who also introduced me to climbing, was there to greet me with a smile and victory cigar!

Pork pies and hot tea were consumed, banter exchanged and whisky passed around to toast absent friends. I was the last to leave the cairn at the top of the ridge. Neil’s parents, Keith and Shirley, had asked me to say goodbye to him for them. I parted company with Neil’s spirit, smiled and nodded into the mist, and set off for the Ben Nevis Inn in Achintee.

The Descent:
I never enjoyed the descent from the summit, a knee-jarring slog that seems to never end. Our spirits were high, and with thoughts of pints and food we picked up speed on our way to the forestry gate. My legs were starting to ache by this point, my right stump in particular. A traverse across the river to the forestry track and a back-breaking ride led finally to the Nevis Range car park. As we drove back into Fort Bill for celebrations at the Ben Nevis Inn, the clouds above the Ben parted and blue skies shone above Glen Nevis. Time to celebrate!

The Celebrations:
We parked up at the inn, and walked into the bar, to be greeted by family and friends. The owner of the inn gave me and Andy food and a few rounds ‘on the house’. Eyes were shining and we were grinning like the proverbial village idiots! After a couple of pints and whisky chasers, festivities were in full swing. During a quiet moment, I turned to Andy and said, “today was a good day on the mountain”, to which he nodded and replied, in typically understated Yorkshire manner, “Aye, it was mate”.

After chuck-out time at midnight, the party moved on and I eventually stumbled to bed, with a little help, at around 3.30am, full of drink, happiness and legs on fire from pain (didn’t care either!).

Completing Tower Ridge lifted a great weight off my shoulders, and also for Andy Padgett, who did not start the route in 2001 (thankfully). The door to that part of my life is now well and truly closed, allowing me to open another to the rest of my life. On the drive back to Manchester, I realised I was finally at peace after three and half years. Many happy days in the mountains beckoned…

Richard’s ascent this year raised funds for the Limbless Association and the English Federation of Disability Sport (50/50 split). Donations can be sent via the MCofS Office (cheques payable to The Limbless Association or The English Federation of Disability Sport respectively). The Scottish Mountaineer congratulates Richard on his achievement and wishes him every success with his future adventures.