Features

My Left Hand -
An Interview with Kevin Shields

By Francis Sheridan

Kevin Shields has overcome disabilities that you would have thought would prevent him climbing. I first met Kevin two years ago when we competed against each other at a dry tooling competition, and we have climbed together since. At 26 years of age he has a tremendous attitude to succeed with his ambitions in climbing and will only get better with more experience. I tried to find out what motivates him and how he climbs so well.

How did you get involved with the outdoors?
My Dad introduced me to hillwalking at a young age. I progressed to scrambling with one of Dads mates and then just going myself, which I still really enjoyed. Then in 1999 I became epileptic which put a stop to my climbing for a while. My Mother got cancer the same year, which made me realise life was for living and that’s when I became seriously into climbing.

Where do you climb and have you been abroad?
Mostly in Glencoe with irregular trips to Nevis and Torridon. I have definite plans to go back to Norway this winter and hopefully trips to Italy and the Alps.

Why do you like a Scottish winter so much?
I love it because it holds such a challenge for me. There is also the history attached to the Scottish mountains and not just the history of climbing. No matter where I go in the world, I never fail to be impressed by the view of the Buachaille (my favourite place on earth) or the north face of Nevis.

What are your disabilities?
I was born with only a partial left hand. After several operations I have a working thumb of sorts. And of course the Epilepsy.

Is it possible to have a fit at the wrong time?
My epilepsy has been controlled for 4 years now and is more reactive to claustrophobic environments.I never ever miss taking my medication.

Which climbers have influenced you over the years?
My early influences wereblokes like Patey, Smith, Cunningham, Haston and Marshall. Later Derek Hersey (soloist) and nowadays people like Will Gadd (Mixed Climber) and Mark Twight (Extreme Alpinist and superb author). Scott Muir has had a big influence on my climbing, having helped me realise what is possible regardless of my disabilities.

In which way has Scott Muir helped?
With ideas for my ice axes, sponsorship and training. He has been a huge influence in my determination to do as well as I possibly can.

If you have half a left hand, how are you able to hold an ice axe?
I have prosthetics made by WESTMARC at the Southern General which are moulded to the shape of my hand and then fitted to the ice axes.

What problems can the axe cause?
With the first axe, I had trouble with reach as it was a large cast, which was bolted nearly half way up the axe. I fell on an overhang and nearly snapped my forearm. On the second axe, the cast was made with a silicone liner and a carbon fibre outer was moulded to a Petzl Charlet Quark Ergo. Unfortunately, the silicone was too slippery and the carbon fibre held the cold, to the extent that I didn't regain total feeling in my hand until a month after coming back from Norway. They are now redesigning the whole axe and I am eagerly awaiting the outcome for this winter.

What are your best achievements and what are your best climbs?
This would have to be leading E3. Just getting to ice climb is in itself an achievement. My best climbs would have to be Smiths Route on Ben Nevis, Soloing the North Buttress on the Buachaille. Leading mixed and pure ice routes in Norway was great.

How often do you go climbing and have you managed any new routes?
I go climbing at least twice a week. I've done a new route in the North West Highlands on trad gear but the crag is still being developed so I can't say too much.

Would you ever consider going to altitude with epilepsy?
I really want to go to altitude but the potential risks are obvious. I could go down with Staus Epilepticus, which means I go into a fit that keeps going. The cure is a shot of diazapan up my backside which I really do not fancy. I would also not want to endanger the life of anyone else. It is a difficult decision.The highest I have climbed so far is about 11,000 feet on the Matterhorn.

Do you get any help from sponsors?
Recently, I have beenfortunate in securing kit from Petzl and Charlet who have been very generous. Hopefully, this may generate interest from other potential sponsors.

Do you have any ambitions for the future?
Definitely some classic alpine north faces, particularly the 38 Route on the Eiger. Alpinism in Alaska and Canada really interests me due to the remoteness. I would love to get to the Himalayas but I don’t know if that will be possible. Other than that just plenty of rock, ice and mixed climbing.