Winter Climbing

A Code of Good Practice

Draft Revision 1/04

Winter Climbing in Scotland traditionally takes place when the hills and watercourses are under snow and/or frozen conditions. The ‘season’ can extend from October to April (and sometimes beyond on the higher cliffs). However, there is no set date limit, but rather the definition of a winter ascent concerns the conditions encountered on the cliff during climbing. What constitutes a winter ascent is an ethical question.

Conservation in winter:

Many of the best winter climbing venues in Scotland are north-facing cliffs, which hold considerable amounts of vegetation. At some of these venues can be found rare alpine flowers, which are not to be found elsewhere in the UK. Hence it is important for conservation reasons that vegetation is well frozen to minimise damage.

Scotland’s Winter Climbing styles:

Since great variation is possible across Scotland, from almost snow free to a heavy covering and with variable degrees of frost when low-level watercourses to high-level mixed routes are frozen, winter climbing involves the following different styles:

1. Traditional Gully climbing (either frozen watercourses or snow/neve)
2. Ice fall climbing (frozen watercourses over rock buttresses)
3. Snow/rime ice on buttresses (peculiar to Ben Nevis)
4. Mixed climbing (on rock buttresses with varying amounts of snow/ice)
5. Dry-tooling (on rock)

Discretion should be exercised as to choosing the best style and route for the prevailing conditions. The following voluntary code is a guide to allow for an accepted ethical ascent that has minimum impact on the natural cliff environment:

1. For maximum enjoyment, the optimum overall conditions for winter climbing would be under frozen and snow covered conditions.
2. The cliff should have a ‘winter’ appearance with snow, hoarfrost, rime-ice or verglass covering rock, not just snow covering ledges.
3. The climb should be more practical and easier in winter climbing equipment such as crampons and ice axes, than without their use.
4. Turf (vegetation) is best when it is well frozen or well covered in snow/neve and then unlikely to be dislodged or damaged.
5. Most of the easier to higher grade gullies require more snow and ice than buttresses of a similar grade. Whilst still harder groove and chimney lines require similar conditions to mixed ascents.
6. Summer routes that are of good quality and in particular classic climbs, often have little vegetation or hold very little ice. There should be a presumption against climbing them in winter, and then only when fully coated with snow and ice in order to prevent damage to the underlying rock.
7. It is common practice to place and remove ones own peg runners and belays on a winter ascent. Repeated use of this sort will ultimately damage the rock and the use of pegs should therefore be kept to a minimum with all options for natural gear utilised first.
8. It would be considered unethical to dry-tool any rock climbs, established or future lines.

Summer Rock Climbing

A Code of Good Practice

Draft Revision 1/04

Most of this code relies on a common sense approach. For convenience it has been split into several different headings, all interrelated and all equally important. A crag code in Scotland is needed in order to pre-empt difficulties concerning how climbing ethics impact on the care of the environment. It is hoped that a code will clarify the wishes of the climbers in order that our crags, whether on low ground or in the mountains, remain as nearly unspoilt as can be possible; a primary concern is to ensure that the crag and its environment are used in a sensitive manner by climbers and that both the crag and the flora and fauna it might support are not damaged unnecessarily.

Scottish climbing has always had an adventurous spirit and it is the wishes of climbers in general that this spirit remains intact for future generations. To that end it is hoped that this code can help assist climbers to keep that spirit alive.

1. Erosion

a). On the approach to a crag endeavour to use existing paths if they exist. This helps preserve the environment. On descent from the top, avoid short-cutting descent zigzags on existing paths and if no path exists then choose a line that avoids soft vegetation prone to erosion.

b). Do not deface the rock surface by chipping, arrows or other graffiti. The removal of loose blocks and flakes often happens by natural weathering through winter freeze / thaw. If you encounter loose blocks that can easily be dislodged by hand then do so with care.

c). Routes should not be marked by cairns, paint or scratches. It is far better to record them by an accurate route description for guide books.

d). If bottom roping is used ensure that both the crag edge and any trees used for belays are protected by suitable padding or slings long enough to drape over the edge. This ensures that rope grooves around trees or on soft rock can be avoided.

e). Try not to abseil down climbing routes if a better alternative is on offer.

2. Vegetation

a). Rockfaces can be home to rare species of plant and tree due to lack of grazing pressures. Flowers on crags make climbing more pleasurable and it is worth identifying the less common species in order that they can be protected.

b). Discretion should be used when gardening new routes with due consideration of the area in question. Landmarks such as trees and bushes must be left and care taken not to remove lichens which can be rare.

3. Birds

a). Many species of birds, their eggs and nests are protected by the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. It is an offence under this act to intentionally disturb them at their nests and climbers must be vigilant during the breeding season and adhere to any voluntary restrictions.

b). Avoiding disturbing nesting birds should be possible by climbing a distance away from a nest site. Many birds such as Peregrine Falcons become tolerant of climbers as long as direct disturbance does not occur and their presence in the area with spectacular flight displays offer added attractions.

c). If birds are disturbed, then you are too close and have to move farther away by law. Climbers can help the R.S.P.B. by keeping note of what type of birds nest on various crags a well as acting as a deterrent to potential egg thieves.

[See the MCofS Information Paper “Nesting Birds and Climbers” for more detailed information and contact the MCofS office for updated voluntary restrictions on a yearly basis].

4. Sanitation

a). Follow the MCofS code on sanitation; avoid pollution either near water or on the crag itself.

5. Litter

a). Do not leave litter lying. Remove yours and, if necessary, other peoples. The crag environment does not need rubbish of any sort and this includes cigarette litter.

6. Climbing Ethics

a). Chalk should be used sparingly, particularly on overhanging rock that rarely gets wet. Chalk can cake on such places and is unsightly, whilst also destroying route finding initiative. The use of chalk is universal in Scotland and the UK, but the use of resin is not. The two do not mix and resin should therefore be avoided.

b). Holds should never be chipped, enlarged or otherwise made ‘easier’. It is the responsibility of the first ascensionist to minimise rock damage when cleaning and to report the climb truthfully. Softer rocks should not be wire-brushed as this can enlarge holds and can be considered as cheating.

c). In-situ protection

Bolts - The use of bolts on Scottish rock it states that bolt protection is acceptable in the production of sports climbs only, on crags of a certain type. [Further detail is contained in A Code of Good Practice for winter and summer sports climbing development available from the MCofS].

Pegs - A minimalist approach should be adhered to, with a presumption against their use for belays or runners on first ascents. A pure ascent is one that uses only natural, removable protection. If it feels too bold for you on natural protection only, then consider leaving the line for future climbers to do in a pure style. Placing pegs during repeat ascents of established routes is entirely inappropriate. They should not be left at all on sea cliffs as salt in sea-spray causes rapid erosion.

Slings and Wires - Leaving these types of protection in-situ offers only short-term protection. Tape slings deteriorate rapidly in ultra-violet light and cannot be relied upon. Wires hammered into cracks corrode to destruction within two years and can prevent further protection being placed.

7. Group Use

a). Large groups under instruction can create a monopoly situation, denying routes to others. This is true both climbing and in abseiling. Large groups are best split into several smaller ones. Groups should ideally choose crags or routes not likely to be popular and in particular avoid classic climbs, though this is admittedly not seen as always possible. Try not to overuse one venue and vary your selection.

b). In general, abseiling should be confined to areas of crag that are not usually climbed on or to crags that do not provide good routes. Many classic climbs have been damaged by repeated abseiling. Try to avoid sites with steep grass slopes at the top which, even after limited use, erode and send mud down the routes below.

c). Those wishing to lead a route should be given priority over top-roping or abseiling.

8. Transport

a). In the Highlands public transport is erratic requiring the use of a car. Climbers should be encouraged to share transport if visiting the same crag and to park in areas that do not form obstructions. An experimental car-share scheme advertised on the MCofS website will be available in the future.

b). In lowland areas where public transport may be more plentiful, then its use should be encouraged.

9. Responsibilities

a). Climbing is a hazardous activity with a risk of personal injury or death. Climbers should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. No liability can be attached to landowners for injuries received due to a climbers own or others climbers activity. The legal principle of volenti non fit injura, ‘participating in full knowledge of the hazards’, applies to all dangerous sports.

b). All climbers owe a duty of care in Civil Law towards their neighbours. This means being aware of any action which may affect a fellow climber and doing everything ‘reasonable’ to prevent injury that may arise out of that action.

c). Climbing Etiquette encompasses common-sense behaviour at a crag to help cut down the risk of injury to fellow climbers. It includes avoiding: Abseiling down a line whilst others are climbing up it; dislodging blocks from the crag or the ground at the top (or dropping items of gear) onto others below; creating an unnecessary level of noise; climbing across or above other climbers creating a risk of injury to the other party should either fall off.

d). Climbing in quarries has its own particular delights, not least the often unstable nature of the rock. Quarry owners are subject to the Health and Safety at Work Act (Quarries), which binds them to prevent accidental injury to the public. This usually means erecting safety notices and fencing around the perimeter. Climbers ignoring such notices do so at their own risk under the volenti non fit injura principle.

e). There is no substitute for experience and novices should seek advice from those more experienced.

[The MCofS has detailed information about safety, courses, duty of care and liability.]