EXECUTIVE NEWS
- Climb Through History Update
- Mountain Article Competition 2005
- Expedition Grants
- Annual General Meeting - agenda
- Annual Gathering details
Climb Through History
Update
It has been almost a year since we last featured an article from the MCofS Millennium climbing event – A Climb Through History – rectified this issue with an account of the very esoteric Waterpipe Gully on Skye. Each issue this year will feature another climb from the event that catalogues the most important routes in Scottish history, drawing from quite a few recent completions and articles submitted including Ardverikie Wall, The Last Eighty, Crowberry Ridge, Excalibur and Crows Nest Crack.
Everyone who has signed up already to do a route and are awaiting the right weather or circumstance are urged to try and complete this year. There’s quite a few out there who have indicated they have done their route but are yet to write about it. Remember, the submission need not be prose, but can be poetry, a drawing, a photographic montage, a painting or anything resembling art that we can include in the magazine.
Anyone interested in participating, should have a look on our website as there are a few routes still awaiting a suitor, including; 1913 Eastern Gully (HS), Sron na Chiche, Skye, 1925 Falklands Gully (HS), Sgurr Sgumain, Skye, 1976 Black Spout Wall (E3), Lochnagar, 1977 Stairway To Heaven (E5), Bla Bheinn, Skye, 1978 Agony (E3), Etive Slabs, 1979 Freakout (E4) Glen Coe, 1985 Abraxas (E4) Cioch na-h-Oighe, Arran, 1994 Bengal Lancer (E2), Carn Liath, Skye.
In the June issue of Scottish Mountaineer, Des Rubens gives an account of the 1927 route West Face Direct of Knight’s Peak on Sgurr nan Gillean, also on Skye, climbed with his son.
Which Millennium Climb for ‘99
At the time of instigation we did not have any details of any new routes climbed in 1999. Most of the new routes for that year are now contained in the SMC Journal 2000 and a few more in 2001. They include: such routes as; Leftfield E2 5c G Robertson, T Rankin, Lord Reays Seat, Fionaven, Seventh Veil E6 6b J Lines, W Moir, N Morrison, Beinn a’Bhuird, Love Buzz E7 6b D McLeod, Glen Croe.
We are asking members to vote for which route they think was the most significant ascent for that year. The full list is on the MCS website, with a voting form. The original selection is based on the ‘Quality’ of route, the ‘Historical Significance’ of the ascent, the Geographic spread to be representative of Scotland’s diversity and to represent all the most significant ‘First Ascentionists’ who have contributed to Scottish rock history.
Which route do you think should represent 1999? Log-on and vote at www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk
MCofS Mountain Article Competition
2005 - REMINDER
Send your entries for the 2005 competition NOW
DEADLINE: 30th June 2005
There are two categories:
PROSE - 1st Prize : £100; 2nd Prize : £50.
POETRY - 1st Prize : £50
Send your entries to the National Officer at the MCofS Office (or email to: kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk).
Expedition Grants 2005
FINAL REMINDER
Applications should have been in before the end of February for the MCofS annual grant awards to expeditions for 2005. But we have had few this year, so it may not be too late for anyone considering a trip later this year. Remember the ‘expedition’ can be those:
“…whose objective is one of excellence and adventure, whether they be first ascents or first free ascents of routes in the greater ranges and little or unexplored mountain areas of the world, or similar pure rock or pure ice climbs in less remote settings but which are nonetheless worthy of international recognition”.
Please note that members also applying for grants to the Mount Everest Foundation will be asked whether they wish to also apply for a grant from BMC or MCofS. If they indicate yes to this, then they cannot gain an additional grant direct from MCofS. The criteria for grants from the MEF, BMC and MCofS are all slightly different.
Applications should include details of the proposed trip and any supporting information. Full details of the grants and an application form is on the website or can be obtained by contacting the office.
Notice of ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING 2005
Glenmore lodge, Aviemore
Saturday 18th June at 1600hrs
AGENDA
1. Apologies.
2. Introduction of guests.
3. Adoption of minutes of 2004 AGM
4. Matters Arising.
5. Annual Report for 2004/2005.
6. Accounts and appointment of auditor.
7. Proposal to increase subscriptions.
8. Proposed Changes to the Constitution.
9. Elections to the Executive Committee.
10. Corporate Plan – revised year2 programmes.
11. Any other competent business
12. Date and place of 2006 AGM
FULL AGENDA NOTES will follow in the June issue of Scottish Mountaineer
3. 2004 MINUTES
Minutes are to be found on our website.
5. ANNUAL REPORT
The Annual Report, a financial statement and the accounts will be available on our website from May 1st (including printer friendly pdf), in Scottish Mountaineer Issue 27 (June 2005) and at the AGM. Anyone wanting hard copy before the June edition of Scottish Mountaineer should send an s.a.e. to the office.
7. PROPOSAL TO INCREASE SUBSCRIPTIONS
Proposed increases are small but necessary for 2005 / 2006 for the following:
1. Help in funding extra administration (primarily for membership services).
2. Help to increase our contingency (still lower than required).
3. Help towards a shortfall for the Access & Conservation post due to a reduction in grant.
4. We have been informed that we should start to pay insurance for our youth members and so we also wish to introduce a reduced youth subscription for those under 16 within clubs.
5. The Civil Liability Insurance increase is less than estimated at £3.65 (20% increase).
8. PROPOSED CHANGES TO THE CONSTITUTION
It is proposed that we change the number of member clubs to be elected onto the Executive Committee in Para 7(a) from seven to six: “…at least six (6) shall be representatives of member clubs…” to be consistent with the increase in the number of individual members last year to [at least] three.
Incorporation of MCofS:
It is proposed to discuss the concept of Incorporation with a view to implementing any recommendations later in 2005. See a separate resume of the issues in this magazine.
9. ELECTION TO THE EXECUTIVE
Nominations are sought for the following vacant posts:
Treasurer, Secretary and 2 Ordinary Members. Please send your nominations to the Secretary Nick Halls C/O the MCofS Office with a brief CV (personal, professional and hill!) before Friday 3rd June 2005.
Please send any business or motions to be included on the agenda to the Secretary Nick Halls C/O the MCofS Office by 31st March 2004. Email to kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk.
MCofS Annual Gathering 2005
Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore
Friday 17th & Saturday 18th June
Debate: State of Scottish Climbing
Friday Evening
Climbing Film Session:
1. Scottish Sport Climbing by Pete Hunter
2. Hot Aches (Scottish winter climbing) by Kevin Neal
3. A Fist Full of Steel by Scott Muir
Saturday Events
The following FREE activities will be on offer:
Between 9.30am and 3pm
(Availability may change - full details in June magazine and on our website)
1. Come-and-try-it Climbing 1/2 day session
For non-climbers wishing to try it. On the indoor wall or outdoor tower. Families with children welcome. All gear provided
2. Coaching in Rock Climbing 1/2 day session
For those climbing at any grade wishing to fine-tune their technique
3. Coaching in Winter Climbing 1/2 day session
For those climbing at any grade. Using the dry-tooling indoor wall and the outside tower. Technical gear provided
4. Belaying and Stance Management 1/2 day session
For climbers with some experience wishing to ensure tangle-free belay systems
5. Holding a Fall 1/2 day session
Practice holding a climbing leader fall — a real eye-opener
6. An Introduction to Classic Scrambling All Day Session
Ridges and Aretes in the Cairngorms
7. Loch an Eilean Safari All Day Session
Walk round the National Nature Reserve and over the tops
8. Abernethy Walk All Day Session
A medium day walk from The RSPB Lodge in Abernethy Forest, over Meall a’Buachaille back to Glenmore Lodge
9. GPS use & misuse All Day Session
Participants need a Garmin Etrex (yellow) or Etrex Summit (brown). Some receiversare available to borrow
10. Micro Navigation with compasses 1/2 day session
How to be accurate with compass navigation.
11. Digital Mapping 1/2 day session
Mapping on your computer and how to use it outside with your GPS
Saturday Events for Kids
Especially for young mountaineers (aged 7 – 15)
12. Climb and Abseil All Day Session
For young climbers with some experience of climbing. Bring your own gear, outdoor clothing and packed lunch.
13. Hill Walking and the outdoor environment All Day Session
An introduction to the walking world and the environment.
Additional Activity:
14. A REALrock Weekend Event
An invite to families who attended the REALrock sessions last summer to attend the gathering and get out to experience more ‘Lead’ climbing with volunteers on both Saturday and Sunday.
Tea/Coffee/cake is available in the Dinning Room at 3.15pm
ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING
3.45pm in the Lecture Theatre
Registration is available from 3.30pm
Tea/Coffee is available in the Dinning Room at 5.45pm
DISCUSSION
Between 6pm and 8pm in the Lecture Theatre
STATE OF SCOTTISH CLIMBING
Continuing the debate on the future of Scottish climbing, summer and winter
Is the ethic of Scottish climbing against bolts in winter? Or summer?
Is climbing a broad church that can accommodate all aspirations?
Or should MCofS take a majority viewpoint?
Introduced and Chaired by John Mackenzie (President)
The debate so far – Kevin Howett
Your Views – an open discussion
BUFFET MEAL
8pm in the dinning room (includes FREE glass of Wine)
(ticket holders only – please book in advance.)
Drinks can be purchased from the bar and taken into the meal
EVENING ENTERTAINMENT
10pm—Midnight
Kingdoms of ExperienceWith Andrew Grieg & Liz Duff