SPORTS DEVELOPMENT NEWS
Argyll and Bute Council Active Schools Team
- Grassroots climbing from the age of three
By Lindsay Keddie (Active Schools Coordinator)
You may be aware of a new initiative called Active Schools, which is currently being rolled out throughout Scotland. The programme is funded by the Scottish Executive through the health budget and is managed and monitored by sportscotland. The aim of the programme is to encourage young people to become more active in all aspects of their lifestyles, including travel to and from school, their time in school, after school and beyond into the Community.
The Argyll and Bute programme was launched in June 2004 and the team are currently working on ways to make school playtimes even more active and fun. As a result the primary schools in Cowal and Bute now have an exciting addition to their playgrounds.
The team have been developing a playground games pack to encourage primary school aged children to be physically active through play. The pack is based on a buddy scheme whereby older children can be trained as 'playground pals' and help to deliver some of the games to the younger children.
In addition to the pack, Active Schools Coordinators, myself from Cowal and Jane Sinclair from Bute, have taken active playtimes a step further and had low level climbing traverse walls installed in the primary school playgrounds. With the support of local businesses and organisations, they were able to raise almost enough money to pay for 14 walls to be installed throughout the area. The children from each school raised the remainder of the money needed to complete the project, by taking part in a sponsored obstacle course fundraiser in each of the schools.
When the Argyll and Bute playground games pack is released, it will feature a section specifically for the climbing walls, detailing a number of games that the children can play incorporating climbing skills. Eventually this will be on sale by Argyll and Bute Council so that other areas can buy the games for use on their own walls.
The climbing walls were installed by The Glasgow Climbing Centre who have been installing traverse walls in schools all over Scotland. The walls are around 6 metres wide and the aim is to climb sideways from one end to the other without touching the ground. They are designed in such a way that the children's feet are always below 60 cm - so that they can step off the wall at any time. This ensures that the traverse walls comply to Health and Safety Standards and European Playground Standards for play equipment that is constructed over a concrete landing area.
The project has been introduced to children as young as three - one of the largest nursery's in the area has had a mini version of the wall installed and had a mural of a castle painted behind it to make it more fun for the children. The walls are also going to be used as a tool for staff working with children with various learning difficulties and disabilities, such as children who are trying to improve coordination and balance.
If you would like further information about how Active Schools in Argyll and Bute put this project together, please contact Lindsay Keddie on 07917073429 or e-mail lindsay.keddie@ea.argyll-bute.sch.uk
News from the Dark Glen
Dreams
By Jamie Bankhead (Instructor)
All photos The Ice Factor
We're coming up for two years open to the public, and this seems a good time to take stock of what has been one long and crazy ride.
Summer 2003, our managing director (Jamie Smith) is acquiring the first of his grey hairs as he realises his days as a high-flying sales exec are limited. Alan (Halewood) is pacing the floors of Glasgow wall, Simon (Powell) is exiled in England, paying his bills but missing family and hills, Kenny Grant has realised that Glen Nevis rock is too slabby for him to get really strong and is longing for somewhere steep and dry to train. I'm working in a hotel, and running out of hospitality.
For us all, the Ice Factor was the right move at the right time. It hasn't always been an easy adjustment, but what drives us and makes us all passionate about getting it right is the knowledge that we are all living our dream. I always liked the idea of working through the instructor awards, of making my living from an activity that I'm passionate about. However I was never sure that I could afford it until I moved here. The support I've had has been fantastic, and while this is maybe quite late in life for me to be making this move, I love it and want to get better at it. I think the rest of the team feel the same way and that they tangibly transmit that excitement to their clients.
So we're all living our dreams; are our visitors? It's easy to see indoor climbing as being a neutered form of exercise; good fun and training but hardly as thrilling as a day on the hill. Unless it's raining hard I'd tend to agree, but I've seen loads of novice climbers, of all ages and backgrounds, having a substantial adventure climbing a wall for the first time. Some are content to leave it at that, but most are curious to find out about more adventurous climbing. It would be nice to think that everyone ultimately realised their dream, be it smoking the blue route or cruising up the Freney Pillar.
We can help with those dreams. This isn't just an indoor centre; more and more people are coming to us wanting to develop what they've done on the wall, or to improve existing outdoor skills. Simon, the Chief Instructor, is a founder member of AMI (Association of Mountaineering Instructors) and ensures that best practice is followed, and we are fortunate to have a wide variety of learning terrain in easy driving distance. Whether it is on the roadside crags of Glen Nevis, the classic ridges of Glencoe or the reliable ice-routes high on Ben Nevis, we have the local knowledge to give our clients the best possible day out.
A plea: I witness alarming practices at crags, usually from climbers who have tried to make the transition from walls to real rock from first principles, with no real guidance. Instruction is sometimes perceived as costing too much, but if one considers the years of fantastic experience that it can facilitate this is clearly a fallacy. And nothing is as expensive as a broken neck. Don't skimp on your dreams. They're important and deserve to be well-fed. What comes around goes around...
SPECIAL MCofS MEMBERS OFFERS:
The Ice Factor, the National Ice Climbing Centre, runs a variety of indoor and outdoor instructional courses throughout the year. Indoor instruction is available on the freeform rock walls, or in the ice chamber, still the largest indoor ice wall in the world. Instruction caters for those with little or no previous climbing experience. For those who already climb more advanced tuition is available, either individually or in the form of 'Improvers' classes, workshops run at set times on certain days. MCofS members are now entitled to a 10% discount to all these services, until 1st June 2006.
In the great outdoors courses are available in summer and winter, from walking and scrambling in the local area and on Skye, to rock, snow and ice climbing (the latter available in Scotland and Norway). Courses range from two to five days, or folks can choose bespoke private guiding and instruction tailored to their specific requirements. MCofS members are now entitled to a 5% discount to all these services, until 1st June 2006.
For further information just call the Ice Factor on 01855 831100, email them on info@ice-factor.co.uk or just check out their website, www.ice-factor.co.uk.
6th Scottish Winter Climbing Performance Seminar
17th - 19th February 2006
All Mixed Up For Winter Performance...
Based at Glenmore Lodge this is primarily a hill based, 'hands on' weekend. In past years some of the key climbers involved in this have included Hannah Burrows - Smith, Rich Cross, Andy Cunningham, Dave Hollinger, John Lyle, Dave McLeod, Scott Muir, Andy Nisbet, Jon Preston, Mike 'Twid' Turner and Ollie Sanders - to name juts a few; this list of names being a cross-section of the great and the good in Scottish winter climbing.
Why use the word performance? No matter what your experience there are a lot of top tips and handy hints you can pick up to increase your own performance, no matter what grade you climb. From leading strategies, moving fast on mixed terrain, winter anchor and belay options, through to seconding some hard snow plastered mixed route there's' a lot to pick up. With that in mind the seminars are for everyone; whether you are just starting out in the Scottish winter scene or an established winter activist, the 6th Scottish Winter Performance Seminar has something to offer everyone.
Check out the website for full details at www.glenmorelodge.org.uk and go to 'events'
APPLY NOW FOR SPONSORED PLACES
"Winter Belays"
MCofS Sponsored Places
The MCofS is sponsoring the course fee (£45) for two (2) places on this course. To qualify for sponsorship you must be a MCofS member and a winter climber. Places will be allocated on a 'first come - first served' basis. (Note: the seminars are non-residential, although accommodation can be booked separately at the Lodge)
Course: Practical one-day workshops aimed at climbers keen to develop their knowledge of protection options on winter climbs. It includes a revision of principles followed by a look at a variety of direct and indirect belays before looking at snow anchors (buried axes and deadmen), ice anchors (ice screws and ice threads), and rock anchors (pegs, nuts, hexes and camming devices). Part of the course will be on the hill. The instructor / delegate ratio is 1:6.
To apply: for a sponsored place please write to Roger Wild at the MCofS Office, with a small CV including your climbing background.
6000m Peruvian peaks Soloed
on MCofS supported expedition
Report by Oliver Metherell
Photos by the Author
The 2005 Scottish Rondoy West face expedition did not climb our primciple objective. However, Gareth Hughes stayed in the country for a month following the expedition and achieved a number of 6000m peaks; some of them solo.
We enjoyed perfect weather for the entire month of July. I attempted the new route in S. America as part of a quest to climb a new route, alpine style, on every one of the seven continents - the 'Super7'.
The hot weather meant that both our objective and the approach was not in condition. In the Cordillera Huayhuash we made an attempt on Rasac and climbed Cerro Mexico (5040m). We then made a reconnaissance of the rarely visited Eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca. Climbers are a rare sight in that part of the world - at one town we were invited to tea by the mayor.
Gareth remained in Peru for a month following the expedition. He soloed Copa (6188m) via the W slopes (PD), and Chopicalqui (6345m) SW Ridge (AD-). He also climbed Artesonraju (6025m) SE Face (D), and Tocllaraju (6040m) West Face Direct (D+) with Robin Deplante.
On Artesonraju they took 5 hours to walk to high camp at 5200m and then the next day reached the summit in 4.5 hours! They simul-climbed with 20m of rope and no gear and then pitched the 70 degree headwall. The descent was exciting as many of the in-situ stakes were buried. Gareth said "Robin took-off solo down-climbing, while I did a combination of soloing and rappelling, it was quite scary!"
Gareth and Robin also attempted Huascaran Sur (6768m) by The Shield (D+), and got to high camp at 5800m before half a metre of fresh snow forced them to retreat.
Where next for my Super7 tour? With new routes climbed in Europe and Australia this year, we have five more to go. I'm getting a team together for the North American and South American stages of the tour. We will be attempting a new alpine routes in Alaska and a rock climbing objective in S. America.
The Scottish Rondoy West Face Expedition received a grant from the MCofS and was supported by The Business, CRUX, Montane, Patagonia, Pocket Mountains, The Mountain Boot Company and Rossignol.
RATHO ADVENTURE CENTRE
Under new Ownership & Management
By Michael Pinkerton (Edinburgh Leisure)
Edinburgh Leisure has been approached by the City of Edinburgh Council to manage Ratho Adventure Centre.
The Adventure Centre, which boasts the largest climbing arena in the world, was placed into administration approximately 18 months ago and, on 15th September, the City of Edinburgh Council took the decision to purchase the centre from the receivers; taking over the centre's operation from 1st October.
In addition to purchasing the centre, the Council committed £4.5 million to the centre for the purpose of completing the facility, which continues to be open to the public.
Edinburgh Leisure, the not-for-profit trust that manages the capital's leisure and recreation facilities, will manage the venue in the short to medium term, working with the Council to complete the building and to consider the longer term options for Ratho.
In addition to the building works still outstanding, which will take some 12 months to complete, Edinburgh Leisure have identified their main priorities as completing the purchase and transfer of the centre and making contact with 'partner' organisations, such as the Mountaineering Council of Scotland, BMC and Ramblers Scotland.
Chief Executive, Keith Jackson, was pleased to accept the challenge:
"We have contacted existing customers to thank them for their ongoing support and to urge them to continue visiting Ratho as we endeavour to bring the centre up to a standard worthy of its potential."
Further information on Ratho Adventure Centre is available from their website www.adventurescotland.com and on Edinburgh Leisure from www.edinburghleisure.co.uk.
Big New Climbing Wall for Aberdeen
By Kevin Howett
Transition Extreme Sports Ltd is a Scottish charity that is building a major new "extreme sports centre" at Aberdeen Beach. This indoor facility has received major financial backing from Aberdeen City Council (£1.26M) and Scottish Enterprise Grampian (£50K) to produce a major indoor skateboard/BMX park; a healthy eating café; kids recreation area - pool tables, video, chill out area, video editing, DJ equipment, photography and internet room; a visitor centre; mini cinema profiling outdoor/extreme sports opportunities; 3 Extreme sports retail units; meeting/training facilities, as well as a dramatic climbing and Adventure Centre.
The climbing wall has received backing from the MCofS as a 'Regional Centre' and application has been made to sportscotland Lottery on that basis. Other funding sources include The Robertson Trust (£200k), Shell (£100k), a Bank Loan and members fundraising (£20k) to meet the £2.7M costs. On November 20th a fundraising event at the RGU Wall by local climbing teams each trying to 'climb the height of Everest' was one of many other sources of financial help (see below).
The wall designs have been inspired by natural cliffs, the centrepiece being a mini 'El Cap' (in Yosemite), whilst 'The Devil's Tower' (in Wyoming) inspired the second wall; a series of 'standing' boulders will lead into a bouldering cave, whilst a further wall will offer a beginners and instructional area. The wall will also have 'leader-placed, natural protection' climbs.
Work is scheduled to start around the end of the year and it is hoped the centre will open its doors in September 2006.
CLIMB EVEREST
Local climbers fundraise for the new wall
The Climb Everest Event hosted at the Robert Gordon University Sports Centre climbing wall in November to raise money for the proposed new Regional Centre Wall by Transition Extreme was a great success. Almost 300 people attended through the day to see eight teams of local climbers speed climb their way to notch up the equivalent height of Everest (8,848m). 8 teams comprising The Etchachan Club, The Aberdeen Mountaineering Club, the Last of the Summer Wine Team, the Craigdon Team, The Shelterstone (RGU) Team, the Cairngorm Club and a Youth Team had to individually try and climb the height of Ben Nevis (1,344m), thus between them exceeding Everest.
The event was broadcast live on Northsound Radio with interviews with climbers, Transition Extreme, MCofS and many others, and was also featured on Grampian TV.
Local children were given an opportunity to 'have-a-go' on the lead wall whilst the teams rested for lunch, whilst volunteers helped supervise more than 40 youngsters in the bouldering room through much of the day.
Neil Morrison (MCofS rep on the project's Advisory Group) put in a huge amount of work helping to organise the event and generous support from a range of local business gave excellent raffle prizes, which alone helped raise £1,400.
The teams varied in age and gender with the following noteworthy highlights: the first team to climb the height of Ben Nevis (1344m) was the Last of the Summer Wine; the greatest vertical ascent (3267m) was achieved by the Etchachan Club; Jim Briggs managed an incredible individual 693m for the Last of the Summer Wine Team; and the final total vertical ascent by all teams was more than twice Everest (19,492m). All their efforts gained sponsorship amounting to £10,000.
Thanks must go to RGU: SPORT, Fillipo Antoniazzi (for hosting event), corporate exhibitors ( TISO, Borderline - Skateboard and snowboard shop, 20TWENTY BMX, Rock Technologies, Activity Mix, Grampian Police and MCofS), Northsound Radio and all the climbing teams.
By the time you read this, Transition Extreme will also know whether they have been successful for a Scottish Enterprise Grampian grant of £250K and a sportscotland Lottery grant of £275k, at which point work can start!
For more information or to get involved in the project see the website at www.transition-extreme.com. Or email Neil Stevenson, Chief Executive of Transition at info@transition-extreme.com.
Chicks Unleashed
3rd Women's Winter Mountain Seminar
13th - 19th February 2006
The Ice Factor
Kinlochleven
(Britain's leading Indoor Mountain Centre)
Our events are designed by women, for women, and led by women. The clinics are led by Britain's top female professionals, picked for their instructional expertise and enthusiasm for the mountains.
Chicks Unleashed started in 2003 as a one off winter seminar in response to the desire of so many colleagues and clients to have the opportunity to learn from and enjoy the mountains with other women. The first Women's Winter Mountain Seminar was a fantastic success, and the continued enthusiasm and inspiration of everyone involved has ensured that Chicks Unleashed continues to flourish.
Chicks Unleashed now offers two Seminars: the Women's Winter Mountain Seminar and the springtime Journey Through Scotland.
We also run a series of other summer and winter events & clinics. Chicks Unleashed is running a Norway Icefest in January, and developing a unique and inspirational adventure to Greenland in 2007!
Check out our new site now: http://www.chicks-unleashed.co.uk, or Tel: 07720 706731.
"Skills Clinics"
Sponsored Places
The MCofS is providing assistance on two (2) places on the Skills Clinics. Each place will be subsidised by £40. To qualify for sponsorship you must be a MCofS member wishing to improve your winter mountain skills. Places will be allocated on a 'first come - first served' basis.
To apply: for a sponsored place, please contact Roger Wild at the MCofS Office with a brief hill walking or climbing C.V.