SPORTS DEVELOPMENT NEWS
- Mixed Masters competition
- MCofS Supported Courses
- BRYCS 2006
- Expedition Grants 2006
- 2005 Visually Impaired Course
- REALrock
The Marmot - Zero G Scottish Mixed Masters 2005
Featured on BBC Scotland’s Adventure Show with flying antics of axe crazed competitors, here are three reports on the development of this exciting event
Supported by: KAYLAND, RED BULL, SIMOND, THE ICE FACTOR
What was it all about at the Ice Factor?
By Alan Halewood
(Ice Factor Manager)
This was organiser Scott Muir’s 3rd such competition. The number of competitors (37guys and 8 girls) attending the event was great and the day was very well attended.
The morning heats were all boulder problems and got thecompetitors warmed up (perhaps too warm - some were obviously still pumped after lunch!).
The afternoon began with the ladies semi final and it was immediately obvious that the problems were going to be hard. Special mention has to be made of 10 year old Jaime Davidson, competing well with the other female climbers despite only one other experience with axes and to Jo George who whilst having loads of climbing experience had only put pick to plastic for the first time on the Wednesday of that week.
If we thought the female semi was tough then the males was even harder, the first free hanging log stalactite providing the scene for epic battles for every competitor.
The females were then allowed onto this same route (waiting their turn in isolation) andwith the addition of a couple of more holds managed to push the high points a bit further. Despite giving it all she had, Scot Fiona Murray was beaten by a world class performance from Stephanie Maureau.
The men’s final was moved from a fiercely technical looking test piece to a modified semi final route as the guys were all in after over 5 hours of climbing near their limits. Everyone in the room seemed to have become a native French speaker when Jeff Mercier began to show that it might be possible to top out. All you could hear were cries of “allez, allez Jeff” as he swung from the top of the articulated wall onto first one and then thesecond of theswinging logs to finish toa tremendous cheer.
Tony Stone'sperformance was outstanding and he must have been pleased to achieve a high point above that of Swiss guide and international ice competition climber UrsOdermatt to take second place.
A few die-hards still had the energy to hang in there to take part in the speed ice competition, easily won by Urs Odermatt, still apparently going strong after qualifiers, semis andfinals of the mixed difficulty and several rounds of speed heats!
Walls of the Future
Scott has noted that he feels walls should do more to make training for this type of thing available. Despite the great comp. it is still a minority activity compared to a walls’ bread and butter activity. I can only speak for the Ice Factor but, ifwe are to spend money and dedicatewhat limitedspace we have to dry tooling indoors thenwe need to know that his is what our customers really want. Indoor dry tooling training could become part of the drive to educate climbers to ensure thatthis type of activity stays where it belongsand doesn’t drift onto inappropriate mountain routes or trad rock/winter lines.I would be interested in receiving feedbackon whether Ice Factor users would feel a dry tooling area to be of benefit to them. Contact me at the Ice Factor on 01855 831 100 or Email: info@ice-factor.co.uk.
The Future for Mixed Masters Competitions
By Scott Muir
(Organiser)
The overwhelmingly positive response from everyone that took part at the Ice Factor will ensure that next year is bigger and better and may not be the only mixed competition of the season. The aim will be to invite more international competitors, spread it over two days and have other Ice Festival events running alongside.
The atmosphere and buzz between competitors was amazing and reminiscent of all the main World Cup Events. It was great to see folk sharing tricks and continuously offering support to each other. I think that the interest and enthusiasm shown confirms the growing interest in this aspect of the Sport and has highlighted the need for more and better training facilities.
What is obvious though is that almost every competitor did harder, more technical and physical climbing in 5 hrs than they would in an entire winter, maybe their whole winter climbing life so far!
It was only made possible by the good will and generous support of many people at the very last minute: Alan Halewood, Jamie Bankhead, Stuart the Chef, Roddy and Paddy and Jamie Smith at the Ice Factor; the late night graft on setting problems and top quality prize support from Kayland’s Andy Moir; the main star however was Laura Lawrance who not only set some great problems that foxed a few old timers but who also worked through the night on problem sheets, carrying gear, keeping me in line and still being at it with the ‘Fire Poi’s’ late on Saturday night. Finally Red Bull provided the whole show with a continuous flow of the Amber Nectar and undoubtedly enhanced not only folk’s performances, but also the atmosphere.
Forms will be out early next year and places definitely limited so get training and psyched. Priority for entry will be given to this year’s competitors. Details will be sent by email so keep me informed if you email address changes.
See http://www.scottmuir.com/ for further information.
RESULTS
DIFFICULTY COMPETITION:
FEMALES FINAL
1 Stephanie Maureau
2 Fiona Murray
3 Joanna George
Female Semi Final Scores
1 Stephanie Maureau 68
2 Fiona Murray 56
3 Joanna George 56
4 Jenny Glumoff 42
5 Viviana Savin 41
6 Jaime Davidson 41
7 Sheila Van Leishout 41
8 Florence Babolat (no score)
MALE FINAL
1 Jeff Mercier
2 Tony Stone
3 Urs Odermatt
SPEED COMPETITION
1 Urs Odermatt
2 Kevin Kelly
3 Blair Fyffe
4 Dominic Scott
5 Andy Moir
6 Ali Robb
It’s Cool to Tool
By Jaime Davidson (aged 10yrs)
So what do I like about dry-tooling? Well to start off with it is totally different to anything that I have ever done before so it is exciting. I usually climb at either Alien Rock or Ratho and that is indoor wall climbing. I thought that this climbing was the greatest sport that anyone could ever do, until a really good friend of mine told me about dry tooling! The first time I gave it a shot was when me and my dad went up to Glenmore Lodge in the summer when we were invited to join the MCofS Gathering and the REALrock event. I had only been on the wall with winter tools five minutes and I knew I was going to love it.
It had been about six months since my first tryout of dry tooling when I was told by my dad about this big competition that involved dry-tooling and ice climbing. The Ice Masters 2005.
Of course, I wanted to go for it, but it was not as much fun at the beginning as I thought it was going to be. We had to sign in at 8am and the comp started at 9am. By the time I got started I had a frog in my throat, butterflies in my tummy and jelly instead of arms! You had to try and get the best points you could on all the problems and score up to 200. I didn’t only find I was the youngest there, but I was competing against people three times my age! I think I did pretty well considering I had not done anything like this before.
By the end of the day I found that I could hardly even walk then there came an announcement that ALL the women were in the semi finals, which was leading this time not top-roping. At first I didn’t want to go for it, so I thought the best person to talk too was Scott Muir, the organiser. I asked him what I should do and he told me to just follow my own path. I thought he was right. He reminded me that it was a once in a lifetime chance, no one was going to make a fool of me and I was the youngest there so I had to enjoy it and just have fun.
I did go into the semis and came sixth, so I didn’t do too badly, well not as bad as I thought I was going to do, but I could not have done it without help and so I would like to thank Scott, Andy Moir, Mike Tweedly and I certainly can’t forget my Mum and Dad.
6th Scottish Winter Climbing Performance Seminar
17th – 19th February 2006
APPLY NOW FOR SPONSORED PLACES
“Winter Belays”
MCofS Sponsored Places
There may still be time to apply for one of the MCofS sponsored places on the Winter belay workshop. The course fee of (£45) will be paid for Two (2) places on this course. To qualify you must be a MCofS member and a winter climber. Places will be allocated on a ‘first come - first served’ basis. (Note: the seminars are non-residential, although accommodation can be booked separately at the Lodge)
Course: Practical one-day workshops to develop knowledge of protection options on winter climbs. The instructor / delegate ratio is 1:6.
To apply: please write to Roger Wild at the MCofS Office, with a small CV including your climbing background.
Check out the website for full details at http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/ and go to ‘events’
3rd Women’s Winter Mountain Seminar
13th – 19th February 2006
The Ice Factor, Kinlochleven
(Britain’s leading Indoor Mountain Centre)
“Skills Clinics” Sponsored Places
The MCofS is providing assistance on two (2) places on the Skills Clinics. Each place will be subsidised by £30. To qualify for sponsorship you must be a MCofS member wishing to improve your winter mountain skills. Places will be allocated on a 'first come - first served' basis.
To apply: for a sponsored place, please contact Roger Wild at the MCofS Office with a brief hill walking or climbing C.V.
Check outour new site now: http://www.chicks-unleashed.co.uk/, or Tel: 07720 706731
British Regional Youth Competition Series 2006
For Children 7yrs-15yrs
NEW EVENT & NEW VENUES FOR 2006
This year we are introducing a ‘FUN’ element to the BRYCS series. Each round will continue to have a competitive element; competitor’s scores leading to selection to the ‘Team’ that then competes in the British Final.
Running alongside will be a non-competitive, fun event for those children who simply wish to “have-a-go”. This will offer the chance to experience indoor competitions without pressure and to meet other young climbers.
We also welcome a new venue for North Scotland at the Robert Gordon University, Aberdeen and for South Scotland, the Ratho Adventure Centre. The dates for the competitions next year are:
Scotland North
1. Climb Caledonia, Inverness March 11th 2006
2. Robert Gordon University, Aberdeen March 25th 2006
3. The Ice Factor, Kinlochleven April 22nd 2006
Scotland South
1. Glasgow Climbing Centre, Glasgow March 11th 2006
2. Ratho Adventure Centre, Edinburgh March 25th 2006
3. Avertical World, Dundee April 22nd 2006
FINAL: To Be Confirmed July 1st 2006
See the individual walls for application forms, or contact the MCofS Office (kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk) or the BMC (http://www.thebmc.org.uk/).
MCofS Expedition Grants
Applications are now invited for 2006
Applications should be in before the end of February for the MCofS annual grant awards to expeditions for 2006.
Please note that members also applying for grants to the Mount Everest Foundation will be asked whether they wish to also apply for a grant from BMC or MCofS. If they indicate yes to this, then they cannot gain an additional grant direct from MCofS. The criteria for grants from the MEF, BMC and MCofS are all slightly different.
Applications should include details of the proposed trip and any supporting information. Details of the grant system and an Application Form are on the website or can be obtained by contacting the office.
The Grant Awards Screening Committee will make its decision in March 2006
“Boredom does not exist here”
By Norma Davison
(Courses Coordinator)
Just one of the statements made at last years mountaineering course for the visually impaired at Glenmore Lodge, and what’s more “its true”.
I don’t think that the instructors could have asked for anymore out of these guys, we had five people who were determined and hungry for whatever was on offer and as it has been in past years the sight loss was not going to be a barrier.
Activities covered during this week were a full days walk in the cairngorms, a day rock climbing and abseiling on the cliffs at Cummingston, paddling in kayaks on loch Morlich, and the highlight of the week was the over night camping expedition down the river Spey in Canadian canoes and thankfully I was able to stay in the boat this year!
All in all another brilliant week, and it doesn’t have to end there - many of the participants carry on with one or more of the activities after leaving the lodge. I, myself and the original coordinator of this course, Lorraine Nicholson are flying out to India in February to the place where Lorraine got the inspiration to set up the course here; we plan to go on a nature camp with Indian visually impaired kids, so who knows where this could lead just watch this space.
2006 Visually Impaired Course
10th - 15th Sept
Glenmore Lodge
For details of how to apply or how to become a sighted volunteer, contact the Course Coordinator, Norma Davidson at:
Tel: 01356 660 242
Email: piper.norma@virgin.net
Post: Norma Davidson, c/o MCofS, the Old Granary, West Mill Street, Perth PH1 5QP
For a full description of the 2005 course and details of the 2006 course see the MCofS Website.
REALrock
climbing sessions
One of the really rewarding aspects of being a REALrock volunteer is getting to meet students again and see how they have developed. It was fantastic climbing with Ross Kirkland and Robin Fourman for a second year and even better to see that neither their enthusiasm nor ability had tempered since last time. It's also great getting to meet and climb with some of the fantastic young climbers out there such as Lianne Smith and getting to introduce Jessica McCaskey to their first few moves on real rock!
The only problem is its quite humbling realising these guys are going to breezing past me on routes in a few short years time!
In the sessions I was involved in, which were the first of the summer, we spent two evenings at Traprain Law. Most of the sessions were spent re-acquainting the students with ropes, nuts, hexes and friends - how to place them and how to get them out! With the students who had climbed outdoors last year, we spent sometime reviewing anchors and more advanced rope work. We also spent time on movement skills and how to boulder safely outdoors without those nice big Ratho/Alien crash pads to fall on!
Jessica McCaskey was a complete newcomer to real rock, and we had a great time ticking classics such as The Great Corner, Flake Route and Hexagon wall - which we both descended via an abseil - so it was a mini-expedition for us! REALrock is scarier than indoors - but MUCH better!
Davy Virdee
Volunteers
REALrock would not be possible without the voluntary help of MCofS Members who devote a lot of time at weekends and often after a full days work. We would like to thank Davy Virdee, Simon Barnes, Martin McCallum, John Orr, Mike Jeffers, Gary Wardrope, Fred Belcher, David Myatt, Stephen Kirkpatrick and particularly John McDonald who went beyond the call of duty helping on most evenings during the two weeks.
There were over sixty individual sessions in 2005 with fourteen new children signing up and several from last year coming along again. With parents attending as well, it makes for a unique family activity and has encouraged parents to get climbing as well. If you would like to help as a volunteer, contact Kevin Howett at the MCofS.
REALrock 2006
A REALrock weekend is planned for a suitable date in April or May for children who have attended in the past; the MCofS Annual Gathering at Glenmore Lodge will again host a REALrock weekend with coaching offered from some of Scotland’s best climbers. Details will be made available direct to participants and on the website (see the sports development pages).
The main sessions will again be held in August at climbing venues local to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, Aberdeen and Inverness, between the Tuesday 8th August and Sunday 3rd September 2006. So, if you have indoor experience and want to get outdoors, why not sign up for this summer? Full details will be in the May edition of Scottish Mountaineer and on the website.
For more information contact: Kevin Howett, Email: kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk, Tel: 01738 493 946