BOOK REVIEWS
High Endeavours – The Life And Legend Of Robin Smith
By Jimmy Cruickshank
Published by Cannongate (2005). Hardback. 374 pages. 30 photos.
Price £1699. ISBN 1-84195-658-9
It must be difficult for later generations to appreciate the impact that the news of the death of Robin Smith had on Scotland forty three years ago. His startlingly rapid progression into the front rank of British climbers, coupled with his colourful reputation, had brought him fame beyond the confines of mountaineering circles.
An authoritative biography was long overdue, and no-one more appropriate than Jimmy Cruickshank could have been found. Apart from having climbed with him for a number of years and knowing many mutual friends and acquaintances, Jimmy was a schoolmate of Robin at secondary school and has a detailed knowledge of his subject’s earlier years. In addition, the biography is well written and has an excellent index – neither of these qualities can be taken for granted with books on climbing and climbers.
It’s remarkable that many prominent Scots were actually born abroad – Eric Liddell is another who springs to mind. Robin Smith was born in India and came to Scotland for the first time at the age of eight when his parents returned home. After primary school in Crieff he moved as a boarder to a secondary school in Edinburgh, where he first became involved in climbing.
At the University of Edinburgh Robin read Philosophy and displayed such exceptional talent that, at the time of his death, he was about to commence doctoral studies at University College London. It is one of the strengths of this biography that sufficient weight is given to his life outside climbing.
The book draws on Robin’s own accounts of key climbs, especially first ascents, and on writing by climbing partners and other contemporaries. There is a particularly informative epilogue recording the reactions to his death of fellow members of the fatal Pamirs expedition and of friends and acquaintances at home.
Jimmy Cruickshank does not gloss over Robin Smith’s constant guerrilla war with the more pompous manifestations of authority or the often outrageous behaviour of the Currie Boys. However, he does explode the persistent myth that he suffered from Anglophobia, drawing attention to the fact that he was on extremely good terms with many climbers and others from the south. At the same time, forty years on we tend to forget just how pervasive was an insufferably patronising attitude to Scots and all things Scottish, and there is little doubt that Robin was not prepared to stand for any nonsense of that kind.
The author puts his finger on the qualities that brought Robin Smith to the fore: an unerring eye for a line, great natural skill, and extraordinary persistence. He was not considered to be a particularly elegant climber – that was more the province of the recently departed Jim “Eley” Moriarty – but his build and physical strength led to his developing into one of the hardest men in world climbing and one whose exploits were held in awe by those of us on the fringe of the climbing scene. Not for nothing was he described in the SMC Journal as “Possibly the most outstanding mountaineer in the long and varied history of the SMC”.
In recent years it has seemed that Robin Smith’s contribution to Scottish mountaineering might be in danger of being forgotten. For this and a host of other reasons we are indebted to Jimmy Cruickshank for a very fine book.
John Pringle
On Thin Ice, Alpine climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya
By Mick Fowler
Published by Baton Wicks (2005). Hardback. 223 pages. 13 Maps and diagrams.
74 Photographs. Price £18.99. ISBN 1-898573-58-1
So often tales of mountaineering are a catalogue of events that take place over a given period of time, in various locations and are as interesting to read as a chronological diary. On Thin Ice is most certainly not one of those books. The way in which Mick Fowler relates the various events keeps the reader interested, even gripped, by what they are reading. Fowler has found the happy knack of getting the reader involved and of being there, sharing in the successes and failures. Tragedy, part of the overall scene in extreme mountaineering, is obviously there but dealt with in such a sensitive way it doesn’t take over the tale.
Mick Fowler who has made his living from being a tax inspector and is an extremely capable climber can now, with this his second book, add being a writer of totally absorbing mountaineering books to his list of successes. If you missed his first book (Vertical Pleasure, Hodder, 1995), I’ll guarantee you will be itching to read it after reading On Thin Ice.
This is a book that will hold your interest throughout; you do not have to be interested in mountaineering as such but just someone that enjoys a good read. For those interested in mountaineering a definite must read book.
Fred Belcher
Walking the Munros
Vol 1: Southern, Central & Western Highlands
Vol 2: Northern Highlands and Cairngorms
by Steve Kew
Published by Cicerone, 2004. Soft Back. 369pages & 303pages. Price £12 each.
ISBN 1-85284-402-7 & 1-85284-403-5
These books are well-written, interesting and informative. Distances, times and heights ascended are clearly stated along with other standard information.
I think that the inclusion of an Estate phone number is unnecessary outside of the Hillphone system, and access cautions are overstated. For instance 'dogs not allowed at any time' (Creag Meagaidh) is wrong: "Access rights extend to people with dogs, provided that the dog(s) are 'under proper control'" (Scottish Outdoor Access Code) although of course wild life disturbance should be avoided. Moreover, 'restrictions' can no longer be imposed, but walkers should co-operate in minimising disturbance to stalking and other activities. A free copy of the Code is available from SNH at Battleby (Tel: 01738 444 177).
The author says, "Walkers should satisfy themselves that they have the necessary permission from Network Rail to use the railway crossing" on the forestry road in Glen Carron. It may still amount to trespass, but for my part, NO, NEVER!
Most of the Munros are grouped into Routes covering 2 or more. This makes good sense. Some of the groupings are interesting but arguable, and might mislead beginners: more alternatives should have been indicated.
Descriptions are generally good, but occasionally hazy or out of date, as might be expected from a one-man Munro coverage.
I consider the layout unfortunate: the main text has a wide margin and is much broken by page-width blocks of factual information (yellow) and comment (grey).
This is an interesting double-volume guidebook to supplement the basic SMC 'Munros' book, to be read with caution.
Mike Newbury
All Mixed Up
DVD
Produced and Directed by Dave Brown and Paul Diffley (2005)
Total Running Time 86mins.
The sheer enjoyment of climbing is very evident throughout this latest offering from the team who produced the highly acclaimed ‘Fools With Tools’ film. The scene has moved from dry-tooling in Scotland to mixed climbs in Canada where two female climbers, Fiona Murray and Flo Babolat, each face their own unique challenges in the ice and snow of the Canadian Rockies.
If happiness is the result of effort, our two climbers should be the happiest people on the planet. The sheer enjoyment of climbing is vividly portrayed with the same sense of off beat humour that made Fools With Tools such a success. This permeates through the whole film, from the training (boys, look to your laurels) in the Schoolyard, to, in Fiona’s case, working and completing, over the course of a Canadian winter, some of the hardest mixed climbs ever undertaken by a woman. After watching this film I think very few people would agree with the film’s introduction of Fiona as a ‘dedicated but unremarkable’ climber.
Flo, a very good rock climber, but with limited ice climbing experience and burdened like many of us with the curse of employment, has only a single, all-action week in Canada in which to achieve her ambitions of leading a hard mixed climb. Her determined attempts to do so are coupled with an infectious and spontaneous hilarity punctuated by a remarkable ability to use exactly the right phrase at the right time, and in such a lovely French accent.
Making for even better value, the DVD also includes the aforementioned ‘Fools With Tools’ film plus a few other short films including the Russian climber Evgeny Krivosheitzev on what is reputed to be the world’s hardest mixed route. My arms were pumped just watching this.
Stuart Bennett
THE ANDES - A Guide for Climbers
by John Biggar
Published by Andes (2005). 304pages. PaperBack. Full colour maps, topos and Photos.
ISBN 0-9536068-2-7
This is the third edition of John Biggar’s remarkable guidebook. The Andes, one of the world’s greatest mountain ranges and second in height only to the Himalayas, stretch from the Sierra Nevada in Venezuela down the Pacific Coast of South America to Tierra del Fuego in Chile. I use the word ‘remarkable’ deliberately, for despite the immense geographical spread, John has described every area of the range and every significant peak, resulting in the only comprehensive guidebook to the entire range. For many years, the English language starting point for anyone researching an expedition to the Andes was the Climbs and Expeditions section in the American Alpine Journal, but Biggar’s guidebook now stands as the essential first reference source.
It includes details on how to climb all the major 6000m peaks and the most accessible 5000m peaks, together with information on the most popular and prominent mountains in Patagonia. For many areas, such as the remote Puna de Atacama, which contains six of the highest ten Andean peaks, this is the only existing guidebook. For me, just seeing photos of mountains that I’d only vaguely heard about, brought the area alive. I particularly noticed that many of the summits are not technically difficult, and can be climbed by PD or AD routes.
I don’t pretend to be an expert on South American climbing, but to road test the guide from my armchair, I turned to the two areas in the Andes that I have visited – the Cordillera Blanca in Peru and the Fitz Roy area in Patagonia. Biggar’s summary of these areas, and his descriptions of the peaks and principal routes hang together well and contain good advice and sound common sense. The Cordillera Blanca is one of the most popular climbing destinations in the Andes, and is well documented by other guidebooks. The Andes does not attempt to replicate the information covered by more comprehensive guidebooks, and points the reader to more definitive sources of information whenever they exist. For Patagonia no English language guidebook exists, but the list of Journal and Magazine references in the back of the book is invaluable.
Overall, The Andes is the perfect book for understanding the geography and climbing potential of the complete Andes chain, and it will fill an important gap on my bookshelf.
Simon Richardson
Scottish Mountaineering Club
Guidebook News
Hillwalkers’ Guidebooks
Scotland’s first guide to mountain fauna, flora and landscape written exclusively for hill walkers will be published this spring. Compiled by some of the country’s leading experts in their fields, Hostile Habitats - Scotland’s Mountain Environment, takes an in-depth look at the upland environment, with chapters on climate, geology and landscape, plants, animals, birds, insects, human influences and conservation. The book is edited by Mark Wrightham and Nick Kemp from Scottish Natural Heritage, which has assisted with the publication of what is sure to be an interesting book.
Also to be published this spring is an amended reprint of the SMC’s hugely popular guide The Munros. The main revision, as well as some text amendments, is that the book will feature a completely new set of maps, which show the Munros, Munro Tops and all neighbouring Corbetts, Corbett Tops, Grahams and Graham Tops. In addition, the photos will be enhanced and there will be a number of new images, including the cover.
Scramblers’ Guidebooks
The second in the Scramblers’ Guides, Highland Scrambles North is expected in late spring. The guide covers the area north of the Great Glen and has been written by Iain Thow with the assistance and production expertise of Noel Williams.
Climbers’ Guidebooks
The next Climbers’ Guide, Northern Highlands Central, covering An Teallach, Carnmore, Gruinard and Gairloch areas is out soon. Like the well-received Scottish Rock Climbs, this will be a full colour guide with photo-diagrams. Following hot on the heels of this will be the Scottish Sport Climbs guide. Later in 2006 will be Northern Highlands South.
Readers Comments Sought
The SMC is interested in receiving comments and corrections on route descriptions and grades for its Cairngorms and Skye and Hebrides guides. To help pull disparate information together to produce accurate guides we would like any information on new routes and repeat ascents in these areas. If you have any information go to http://www.smc.org.uk/ and either click on the Contact Button, or the Feedback Button. New routes should continue to be sent to the New Routes Editor using the Contact Button, or the link on the homepage. Any information sent to the New Routes Editor is also forwarded to the relevant guidebook authors.
Guidebook Photographs Sought
The SMC is urgently looking for more good climbing and mountaineering action photographs, summer and winter, for its Northern Highlands South Climbers Guide. Good crag shots suitable for use as photo-diagrams are also sought. The guide covers the mountain crags and outcrops of Torridon, Applecross, Kintail and Knoydart.If you have suitable images, then go to the SMC’s web site http://www.smc.org.uk/and either use the Contact Button, or the link on the homepage, where you can obtain further information.
Sport climbing action photos are also being urgently sought for use in the Scottish Sports Climbs Guide. The SMC will also be looking for images of winter climbing cliffs in Scotland, so if you plan to be out and about this winter please bear this in mind; we pay a small sum for the use of photographs.
Special Offers
The Munros – Pre-publication offer
The amended re-print is due out in the Spring and up until the date of publication Scottish Mountaineer readers are being given a discounted price of £18.00, inclusive of postage (retail £20.00). To make your purchase, simply log on to http://www.smc.org.uk/ , go to Publications, then The Munros and follow the instructions.
The December Scottish Mountaineer reader offers on The Corbetts CD Rom (Offer price £20.00 inclusive of P&P; retail £30.00) and the book A Chance in a Million (Offer price £12.00 inclusive of P&P; retail £14.95) are being continued until the end of April. Simply log on to http://www.smc.org.uk/ , go to Publications, then follow the instructions.
The SMC publishes the definitive guidebooks to the hills and cliffs of Scotland. The information provided in its guides and through its web site is produced for the benefit of climbers and hill walkers. The profits from SMC guidebooks go to the Scottish Mountaineering Trust, which offers grants to mountaineering and mountain related projects.