Access & Conservation News
Cummingston
Sea Cliff Erosion Problems
Local climbers and user groups attempt to find a solution
By Richard Spencer
Pete Hill and others who regularly climb at Cummingston have become very concerned at the degradation of the site. Pete called a meeting to discuss options for repairing or preventing the erosion and representatives from Outfit Moray, the Abernethy Trust, the Moray Coast Ranger, Gordonstoun School, Glenmore Lodge and myself (for the MCofS) attended.
They, very responsibly, have drafted a code of conduct the adoption of which they hope will serve to protect the site, while not obstructing legitimate use. All those who enjoy the convenient, easy-accessed unrivalled facilities of Cummingston are encouraged to observe the code, if they think it fills the bill, or to contribute to the debate, with a view to improving it.
Specific areas of bad erosion were identified as:
The top of Green Crack;
The top of the aręte and Cornflake Wall;
The top of the Blockproof Bay;
The top of the abseil into the cave.
All these routes are heavily used by groups. The stakes currently in position may contribute to the erosion but it was felt that removing them would not help as climbers would place their own anchors wherever they felt necessary and this would be uncontrolled. However, some stakes would be replaced where necessary and it was agreed to two placements on the main cliff, positioned to reduce the erosion of the cliff-top path, and three on the stack.
After discussion, it was felt that a solid retaining wall, dressed with dry stone along the top of the crag, would be an acceptable solution to the problems. This would also allow the positioning of anchor rings in the wall, negating the need for stakes in those immediate areas. The group were to contact various companies and organisations for suggestions on the most environmentally friendly way to proceed.
The main access path to the top of the crag is also suffering a lot of wear but it was decided that this should be left for now.
Some years ago, Nigel Williams of Glenmore Lodge created a draft code of practise to be employed at the crag for groups. This has been updated by Pete Hill and is reproduced here for comments. Send you views and suggestions to the MCofS and we’ll pass them on: info@mountaineering-sscotland.org.uk
CUMMINGSTON SEA CLIFFS VOLUNTARY USER CODE
ARE THERE ALTERATIVES?
- Do we need to go there at all?!!!!
- Can we be imaginative? Extended bouldering session, offering different activities, etc, would all go towards reducing cliff-top erosion.
USING THE STAKES.
- There should be no moving ropes going over the edge of the cliff other than when leading/seconding in the traditional manner, or in the case of abseil safety ropes and top-roping.
- All edges with anchor ropes going over them should be protected with either rope protectors or carpet, similarly if abseiling. Carpet provides better protection and its use is to be encouraged– the emphasis is on protecting the rock as opposed to protecting the rope. If you protect the rock you will protect the rope.
- All rigging ropes should be static ropes to reduce stretch and therefore the sawing effect on the ground.
- Ropes should be brought to a single point before the edge of the cliff and then extended over the cliff edge and padded appropriately.
ETIQUETTE.
- Ropes should not be put down a climb unless it is to be used within a short period of time. The rigging can be prepared and ropes left on the top until needed
- Group equipment should be kept together and not strewn around the bottom of the climbs.
- Those climbing with leader-placed protection will always take precedence over a group session. The instructor should therefore make any visiting climbers aware that they will be happy to move the ropes out of the way if the climbers wish to climb that particular route.
FOOTPATHS.
- Until appropriate work is carried out, the descent path below Sunshine Wall should be used as little as possible. When used, it should be in such a manner as to minimize any further erosion.
EDUCATION OF THE GROUP.
- On arrival, the group needs to be made aware that the site is a SSSI as well as any access issues, and be encouraged to preserve or improve the status quo whilst they are there. Their instructor is liable for the group’s actions and behaviour.
- They should not use the cave areas as a toilet. Only areas washed frequently by the sea (i.e. the back of the stack) should be used. Alternatively, there are excellent facilities in the car park.
- Instructors should ensure groups do not scratch their names onto the rock or throw stones at the crag, as the soft sandstone will never recover.
- Groups at the abseil site at the top of Green Crack should be made to sit well back on the grass and not on the turf cornice at the head of the erosion scar.
INTER-USER COMMUNICATION
- If the main heavy-user centres can communicate with each other about any imminent large group use it will help reduce both erosion and congestion. Emailing or ‘phoning each other prior to departure from the centre, planning ahead, and communication are to be encouraged.
The following were included in the consultation process:
Pete Hill MIC, Adventure Consultants UK, Malcolm Lee MIC, Glenmore Lodge, RAF Grantown, Abernethy Trust, Active Outdoor Pursuits, Outfit Moray, Mountain Leader Training Scotland, Gordonstoun School, Moray Mountain Club, SNH, Moray Council Coastal Ranger, Andy Nisbet-SMT area guide editor, MCofS Access Committee.