Sports Development News
World Youth Championship 2006
Two of Scotland’s rising young competition stars were too young to compete in the WYC when we hosted it at Ratho over 2 years ago. But they became British Champions and last year competed in the WYC for the first time at Beijing and did well. What about this year?..... Here are their stories...
Natalie Berry…
The World Youth Championship in Imst, Austria was an event I had been avidly looking forward to since coming 5th in Beijing last year. Prior to the competition, I had spent two weeks in Imst with my parents, where I believe I picked up useful information about the walls technicalities, as well as gaining the intense fitness that comes with manoeuvring on roofs. I was intrigued to see children under the age of 10 leading on the steepest sections of the wall – a sight I have rarely seen even on the much more forgiving gradients of British walls. It seems that the Austrians have it sussed – build world class facilities, start the kids young, encourage them, and watch them win.
Each day I had felt myself improving; achieving one hold further than last time or simply feeling more confident and fluid on the immensely confusing roof sections. To complete even the easiest route through the roof you require the skill of a contortionist yet the control and efficiency of a gymnast. And the mind of a chess player! To co-ordinate your movements successfully on route you must be able to envisage your movements on the ground. This is incredibly difficult if you consider that you often need to be upside down, back to front with your feet higher than your hands – suddenly, clipping that quick draw by your waist seems impossible. I just wish I could have the funds to train abroad more often! Either that or have walls in the UK that are up to the international standards of Imst…
After qualifying for the semis I spent a good few hours in isolation, along with fellow British Team member Robert MacKenzie. Isolation is an interesting place. It allows you to study the styles and preparation techniques of climbers from across the globe; what makes them psyched to climb? What’s going through their mind the moment they walk out in front of a crowd of 1000 people? Hours followed minutes followed seconds and then – I was up to climb. Tied on and ready to go – I visualised the route in my mind. That’s an aspect of competition climbing that really appeals to me – the challenge of processing countless ingredients of success – the sequence, the clips, the rests, the pace, the movement, the tension, the nerves, the excitement, the performance – before choreographing it into reality. I walked to the foot of the wall and looked to the last hold – my destination. I grasped, twisted, swung and turned – trying to perform each movement with optimum efficiency. As sheer determination and exuberance take over I get to the crux and slap for a hold on the towering roof – before gravity pulls me down…
Qualifying in 2nd (3rd on count back) for the final gave me much needed confidence – I was going to be at least 8th in the world, so I had nothing to lose and everything to go for. Isolation was slightly more relaxed this time – I knew nearly all the finalists. That’s my favourite aspect of competition climbing – meeting people, just like at a crag, but better. I think I’ve learned a lot about life from my travels and competitions – I believe I’ve attained wisdom from meeting people of all backgrounds and personalities from around the world. One common factor is a love of climbing – a desire and determination to succeed, regardless of their abilities or what others think of them. Finally, we were led out to the wall to ‘route-view’. I looked up at the wave-like route that snaked unlike any route set at my local walls! I worked out the sequence with a Swedish friend, finding crucial moves and points to recuperate. My mind was a whirlpool of emotions. I was determined now - starting up the labyrinth that was this sixty-move route of pure purple poison. The flatter featured section of the wall forced me to be tentative with my feet – I knew that at least three of the favourites in the older female category had slipped here in the semi final. The roof was in sight as I grabbed the first hold on the steep section – only for my foot to do the opposite...
I felt disappointed as I was lowered to the ground to rapturous applause. However, when it was announced that I was 4th overall in the world I was more than satisfied… Only two moves separated me from 3rd place, two and a half from second.
With the Union Jack draped proudly around my shoulders I stood beside the podium, shaking hands and congratulating my fellow finalists – as the cameras flashed and the crowd cheered and the flags flew, and hundreds of competitors from over 30 countries said tearful goodbyes – echoes of “See you in Ecuador!” filled the hall as the “passing of the flag” ceremony took place.
In all this was a fantastic event that pulled together the worlds best young climbers, all immensely enthusiastic and passionate – just the kind of positive image that climbing needs if it is to become an Olympic sport. I would like to congratulate all the British Team members for their exceptional performances at what has to be one of the toughest World Championships yet – the standards have increased yet again from last year, just when we thought junior talent was at it’s highest the entire world has raised it’s game. Here’s to Ecuador… (if we have the funds!).
Robert Mackenzie…
I left home on 21st August, on the train, headed for Stansted where I had to meet the rest of the team at 4am to check in for our flight, landing in Friedrichshafen, Germany, at 9am. We still had a 2 hour drive to reach Imst and arriving at about 1pm we had to negotiate a maze of back streets to find our hotel.
We had a day to rest before the competition. Most of us set off for the ‘alpine coaster’ which is the longest mountain coaster in the world and afterwards we went swimming in a local outdoor pool.
The competition started on the 25th at 8am so we all had an early start to be there in time. When we arrived we had to watch the demonstrations. My starting place was 54th and I had calculated that I would be climbing at about 3pm. I started my warm up at 1.30pm and my name was called at exactly 3pm to go to my belayer.
The first qualifying route did not seem too hard but the last moves were quite slopey and I almost slipped. However, I managed to top the route and was in joint 1st place at the end of the first day.
On the second day I had to get warmed up early as I was climbing in 16th place this time. When we arrived at the climbing wall nobody else had arrived so I had the whole bouldering wall to myself for my warm up.
When my name was called I did the same as I had done the day before. I sat beneath my route to put on my shoes and took a few seconds to focus and then it was on to the route. I was feeling pretty strong at the start of the second qualifying route. Unfortunately I fell 5 holds from the top. I was slightly disappointed as I did not think I had done enough to get through to the semi finals at that point, so I was annoyed with myself.
Shortly afterwards Dad came to congratulate me on making the semi finals. I was amazed and had a big grin on my face the whole day.
On the morning of the semi finals I had another early start as I was climbing in 14th place. This time I had to go into isolation. I didn’t like this very much as there were so many people in isolation that it was hard to get a proper warm up. I managed though and by the time my name was called I was ready.
I didn’t do so well on this. About half way up I swung onto a nasty, nasty hold and held it for a couple of seconds before loosing my grip…..arghhhh!
Still, once the semi finals were over I had placed 16th overall, which I’m well happy with as I know I’m on the pace. With only a few holds separating the top 16 competitors this inspires me to keep training because I know I can win one day, and if I don’t, well I gave it my best shot.
I had a fantastic competition, a great trip to Austria and made many new friends from all over the world. I can’t wait until next year in Ecuador. I aim to win.
WYC British Team Results 2006
Male Youth A:
Martin Watson 42nd
Tony Musselbrook 57th
Peter Johnston (SCO) 63rd
Male Youth B:
Robert Mackenzie (SCO) 16th
Male Junior
Joe Wilson 42nd
Female Youth A:
Bethany Monks 35th
Katy Whittaker 40th
Female Youth B:
Natalie Berry (SCO) 4th
Female Junior:
Jemma Powel 42nd
See <britishclimbingteam.com> for more information
Inspiring Children with Disabilities
Kevin Shields explains the idea behind a MCofS initiative for physically disabled children
I was born in 1978 with only a partial left hand. The minute I was born my parents were given nothing but negative views about my future prospects, to which thankfully they paid no heed. My father started me hill walking at a very young age and I continued this right up until I was 20. I then became epileptic and spent the next year and a half getting this under control.
It was after this that I decided to get seriously into climbing. I knew after my first venture onto rock that my life had changed and nothing would be the same again. I soon had a prosthetic axe made for ice climbing and then began climbing with Scott Muir and my climbing improved rapidly from there. I am now climbing E4 solo, Winter V/5, WI5, M10 sport mixed and still love big mountain scrambles, my passion though lies in solo climbing.
My personal future ambitions are to basically push the above grades as far as I possibly can, I am fortunate enough in that I am sponsored by Mountain Equipment, and Black Diamond support me with axes to test new prosthetics. At the moment I am working on a film project and I am really keen to develop 'disabled' climbing as I know just how much of a positive influence it has had on my life and it would be great to pass that message on!
Because of the MCofS experience of getting kids climbing through the REALrock initiative, and with myexperience working with REACH, a charity for kids with upper arm disabilities, it seemed that a good place to start would be to encourage these kids to try something different – to try climbing.
So, we would like to set up a series of initial climbing events this coming winter and are looking for any one under the age of 25 with limb disabilities who may be interested.
Contact: Kevin Howett, Sport Development Officer, MCofS, The Old Granary, West Mill Street Perth PH1 5QP. Email: kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk.
British Regional Youth Competition 06
By Kevin Howett
Although hopes were high that Ratho could finally be the venue for a BRYCS final it was not to be (but wait and see for next year). It was Liverpool’s Awesome Walls that hosted 153 competitors from ten regions of Britain (and all their families).
It was a long day in the wall, whilst outside the weather was blistering hot. This on top of a long drive for the Scotland North Team, but, despite depleted numbers, they excelled (is there something in the water up there? or perhaps Ruairidh Mackenzie [MCofS Area Youth Coordinator] is feeding them red bull?): Isaebail Moffat secured 1st and Nikki Addison 2nd in the Girls 7-9 and in the Boys 10-12 Dylan Mackenzie came away with 1st, following in the footsteps of his elder brother Robert, with team mate Steven Addison gaining 21st.
In the boys 13-15 Deb Banerji (Scotland South) proved again he is a talented climber and came 2nd just loosing out to James Gordon of England North West. Alex Gorham and Jonathan Stocking (10th & 13th) also performed well against 27 of the best comp. climbers in the UK. Jonathan Field gained 6th in the Boys 10-12 and his team mate Paul Williamson 13th, whilst Lindsay Forsyth gained 21st for Scotland South in the Girls 7-9, unfortunately up against the Scotland North girls who were flying this year!
The Girls 10-12 had three competitors from Scotland South competing: Beth Simmonds (23rd), Collette Robertson (21st) and Jamie Davidson. Jamie describes her experience below, picking up 13th as best placed Scot in the category.
The Girls 13-15 was the best represented category for the Scottish teams and Karen McIntyre (10th), Amy Johnston (12th) and Jessica McCaskey (15th), all Scotland South, piped Ellen Macaskill (16th) from the North.
During the prize-giving, the Scottish teams lined up behind the stage sporting their Team Hoodies (courtesy of MCofS) and the Saltire and clearly loved every minute of it.
As always, Graeme Alderson and others at the BMC made sure the day went well and thanks go again to all the volunteers for all the hard work. Special thanks must go to the children for what has become the biggest climbing event of its kind in Britain and shows that climbing’s youngsters are a credit to the sport.
Check out full results on the MCofS website. The dates for BRYCS07 are below, why not apply this year?
Scottish BRYCS07
Scotland North Scotland South
Round 1: 10th March Inverness Climbing wall Glasgow Climbing Centre
Round 2: 24th March Extreme Dream, Aviemore tbc
Round 3: 28th April Transition, Aberdeen Avertical World, Dundee
Final: 30th June Ratho
My Final
By Jamie Davidson
I walked into Awesome Walls for the first time on July 1st. I thought it was really small to hold all the people who were going to be crowding in as the day grew on. I had been training so hard for this day & now it was here I felt great, I was really excited & ready to get going, I got my gear on, did the warm up (which is always fun) & flashed the first route easy. I must have told my mum & dad about twenty times “I know I’m going to win this or at least be in the top three”.
I felt I was climbing so well, the best I have felt in a competition before. I was surprised though as Liverpool was having a heat wave & with so many people in a confined space it was hot! I had flashed the second route & four boulder problems & was really enjoying myself until my turn came for the last route. I was in joint first place.
Oh my god, I thought I was going to puke. I mean it was the first year I thought I was going to be first and it all depended on this last climb.
So I started, really nervously but I started. “Come on Jaime, you can do it’’ I said to myself, But as soon as I started climbing I knew it was not going to be a good climb.
I was just so nervous and it did look like a hard climb. So I was at the second clip. Come on you can do it I heard all my friends cheering me on from down below, but apparently I couldn’t. I mean I started to cry about ten seconds before I actually came off, I just knew that that was it.
I had just worked so hard on all the other routes, I had topped out on all the other problems but I had to fall off on this one climb.
I was missing foot holds, not concentrating at all and was just too nervous, It felt like my first time climbing! As soon as I got down I still got a lot of praise but just ignored it and ran away outside crying. I was outside for about three minutes before I decided to go in and apologize to all the people that I had ignored and just pushed to the side before.
I was just annoyed with myself so I took it out on other people who fortunately understood what I was going through. I still did go and apologize to them when I had calmed down.
But I still wasn’t in the zone & had one more problem to do which was the 5th & hardest, but I wasn’t that bothered as I felt I had let myself & the Scotland South team down.
But my mom, being my mom, told me some great advice that got me feeling a bit better. She said if I thought I felt bad then and didn’t do the last problem (which was proving to be really hard with only a few people topping out on it) I’d feel even worse. It was really hard & I came off the first try but on my second attempt really nailed it & felt a lot better. But at the same time it just shows you, I mean I was heading for a first place before that climb and it changed everything! It did teach me a very valuable lesson though, don’t let nerves take you over, don’t let them control you and most of all don’t let them get in the way of your chance of VICTORY!
UH well, next year!
REALrock06
By Kevin Howett
(Sports development Officer)
2006 REALrock was another successful event with members of the MCofS (Davy Virdee, John McDonald, Neil McGeachy (AYC South), Ruairidh Mackenzie (AYC North), John Orr, Gary Wardrope, Fred Belcher, Andy Munro and Martin McCallum) acting as volunteers introducing young climbers to outdoor rock on 66 sessions spread across the country.
Spreading the sessions over 3 weeks towards the end of August into September allowed more flexibility for bad weather and we shall continue this next year. The involvement of parents is also proving advantageous by allowing parents and children to meet up after REALrock and climb together and allowing parents wishing to learn belaying to gain some experience to continue trips out with their children.
We have become aware that many children had not been outdoors since participating last summer so we wish to identify other opportunities between the summer sessions – scheduling a few Saturday sessions in ‘sport’, ‘bouldering’, and ‘leading’ in the spring. Look out for adverts in the magazine and on the MCofS boards at the main climbing walls.
A fuller report of REALrock will follow next issue.
International Winter Climbing Meet
23 February – 2 March 2007
Glenmore Lodge
This year, we will be inviting approximately 40 international guests to the meet, and we are relying on a similar number of volunteer hosts to show the guests what winter climbing in Scotland is all about.
The meets are always a unique experience, and we are looking for enthusiastic and experienced climbers with a good knowledge of the mountains to show the overseas visitors around. Your technical lead grade is less important than the need to be an experienced and competent winter climber with sound navigation skills and the ability to cope safely with all that Scotland can throw at you.
Many of the guests may have done little or no winter climbing so it is vital that you feel confident climbing with such partners. It is also important that you come with a friendly and welcoming attitude to integrate with the foreign guests, many of whom will never have been to Scotland and will often speak little English.
All accommodation, food, and transport will be provided for the small charge of £65 per person for the week - all you have to do is get yourself to Glenmore Lodge.
If you are interested look on the MCofS website for an application form or contact the BMC Office. Successful applicants will be informed in December.
In the meantime if you need to know anymore about the event or have any specific queries please contact Nick Colton (BMC) on 0161 438 3305 or nick@thebmc.co.uk
Ratho Reopens
The works at Ratho are continuing but the Arena will be open for climbing in mid January 2007.
Ratho Health & Safety Review
In response to safety concerns raised by organisations and individuals, George McEwan – Senior Instructor, and Head of Mountaineering at the sportscotland National Centre Glenmore Lodge, was seconded to the Adventure Centre Ratho (ACR) as a Training Advisor to undertake a “People” Based Health and Safety Review of it’s climbing procedures and guidelines in the following areas:
- Arena and Climbing Safety (including emergency procedures)
- Staffing and Related Issues (Recruitment; Safety and Training; First Aid; Child Protection; Route Setting)
- Health and Safety Policy
It concluded that there were no safety concerns or issues, although paper trails required updating to reflect current (good) custom and practice as carried out at the ACR. Most importantly instructional staff are extremely motivated and committed to providing top quality, professional climbing instruction. The full report is available on the MCofS website.
