Other News
Climber’s Climbers Lecture Series
8 pm, Boyd Orr Lecture theatre, University Avenue, The University of Glasgow
Supported by Pocket Mountains
Super7
Ian Parnell: Alpine Warrior (£6.50 per ticket), 1st Feb 2007
Ace mountaineer Ian will be talking about his recent trip to Nepal where together with Kenton Cool and John Varco he scooped the first ascent of the South West Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m). This coveted line had seen numerous attempts by high powered Slovenian teams. Ian gives the low down on how his motley trio managed to scoop this Himalayan Prize. Expect broken bones, underground ice caves and the world‚s worst bivvy alongside an innovative mix of video, banging tunes and Ian’s stunning photography.
“Boldness, innovation, sense of humour, irreverence, commitment and an appetite for risk; you‚re in for a great evening” Chris Bonington
Andy Cave: Learning to Breathe (£6.50 per ticket), 15th Feb 2007
Andy Cave was the winner of the 2005 Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature. In this remarkable lecture; mountaineering legend, ex-miner and best-selling author Andy Cave brings us a journey from Grimethorpe to Gasherbrum; from a Barnsley chippy to the North Face of Changabang. Accompanied by compelling photography, this is an unmissable opportunity to hear his compelling story.
“Andy Cave is one of our greatest climbers...” The Observer
Oliver Metherell: Living the Dream (£5 per ticket), 1st March 2007
For the past 4 years Oliver Metherell has been living the dream as a dirt-bagging, globe-trotting, climbing vagabond. He’s raided bins in Chamonix, climbed new mixed routes on Ben Nevis and pioneered a route up New Zealand’s ‘Matterhorn’. These adventures has been juggled around an action packed series of bizarre employment such as delivering yachts through the Bermuda triangle, road testing 200mph superbikes and driving a rickshaw. Combine this with his obsession with photography and you have an evening of inspirational entertainment.
“Audacious” The Glasgow Herald
Gary Latter: The best of Scottish Rock (£6 per ticket), 15th March 2007
Gary Latter is a Scottish rock climbing legend, having pioneered and repeated quality rock climbs of every standard throughout the Highlands and Islands. He has travelled the length of the country seeking out the most beautiful and compelling lines. Expect stunning photography from his latest book (a selective guide to the finest climbing in the Highlands and Islands) and an evening of pure entertainment.
The concept behind Super7 is simple: To pioneer a new climbing route on every one of the seven continents. http://www.super7.co.uk/.
North East Mountain Trust
Winter Lectures
14/11/06 Eleven Plus
Dave MacLeod on E11, Scottish X1 & what they mean to him.
12/12/06 A Sense Of Belonging To Scotland
Andy Hall with photographs of landscapes & other places with special meaning to famous Scots.
All lectures start at 7-30 pm & are held at the Belmont Club, 218 The Hardgate, Aberdeen EXCEPT for Dave Macleod [14/11/06] which will be at the United Services Club, 15 Bon Accord Square, Aberdeen. Tickets at the door.
NON MEMBERS WELCOME
Full details on www.nemt.org.uk
Edinburgh's
E5 lecture series
enters 3rd season
- bigger and better than ever!
E5 events started up in 2005 in Edinburgh with a series of cutting edge climbing lectures. Since then, with the support of Tiso's, it has gone from strength to strength, aiming to mix big names such as last years Mick Fowler and Leo Houlding, with lesser known climbers with equally audacious stories to tell.This years line up includes:
Andy Kirkpatrick (Thursday January the 18th)
Rosie Golden (Thursday Febuary the 15th)
Es Tresidder (Thursday March the 15th)
And:
Two speakers to be confirmed (Thurdsday the 1st of Febuary and Thursday the 22nd of Febuary).
One of these will be a world renowned climber poached from the international winter meet…..
Tickets: £5 in advance or £6 on the door
Available from: Edinburgh Tiso shops and on the E5 events website http://www.e5events.co.uk/.
Season ticket: available for £20 for all 5 shows.
24th Dundee Mountain Film Festival 2006
University of Dundee’s Bonar Hall
Friday evening 24th November and all day Saturday 25th November
Friday evening:
‘Coburg Island and Beyond’ - Arctic Adventure from explorer and photographer John Dunn.
‘Haston – A Life in the Mountains’ by Douglas Eadie.
Saturday Morning:
‘By Hands and Feet across Greenland’ - Grantown’s Karen Darke and five friends ski-ed across Greenland in May this year - nothing remarkable except Karen is paralysed and was propelling herself with arms only in a sit-ski!
‘Mountain of Ice’ - Jon Krakauer, and Conrad Anker tackle Antarctica’s tallest peak.
Saturday Afternoon:
‘Don’t Look Down – a Sideways look at Mountain Film-making’ - Keith Partridge, from Fife, climbing and adventure cameraman, takes us on a personal journey with stories and video clips from series like ‘The Edge’, ‘Wild Climbs’, ‘The Face’, ‘Touching The Void’ and ‘Top Gear’.
Also showing is the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour with action packed extreme mountain sport films and a world premiere bouldering film shot in the City of Discovery!
Saturday Evening:
‘The Real Mrs Brown’ - Scotland’s own Ian R Mitchell on the trail of Queen Victoria. Follow in her footsteps on the ascents of Lochnagar, Ben Macdui and Bheinn a Bhuird.
Canadian climber Chic Scott shows vintage slides and film clips and rollicking storytelling of the 1975 film was ‘The Eiger Sanction’.
Tickets:
Dundee, Perth and Aberdeen, by post or at the door of the Bonar Hall during the festival (subject to availability).
Main sponsors are Tiso, Zestco, The Scottish Mountaineering Trust, Highland Park and Climber.
For more information visit http://www.dundeemountainfilm.org.uk/ or e-mail mail@dundeemountainfilm.org.uk
E11: The Movie
The Edinburgh production company Hot Aches released their new film on October 21st featuring Dave MacLeod’s ascent of Rhapsody, Britain’s first E11 and possibly the hardest traditional rock climb in the world. The film premiered at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival and is also available on DVD from outdoor retailers across the country or online at www.hotaches.com, price £18.99.
The film reveals the dedication, frustrations and shear physical and mental effort that goes into MacLeod’s climbing. We see him take a series of terrifying, massive, gut wrenching falls. The strain begins to show as he struggles to cope with the difficulty and seriousness of the endeavour. Doggedly, even obsessively, he keeps returning to his ‘ultimate’ project.
The DVD also features several other major ascents that MacLeod fitted in between attempts on Rhapsody. These include Breathless (originally E10), font 8b boulder problems, f8b+ sport climbing plus special footage of a previous f8b solo! and a sneak preview of some hard Scottish winter climbing from another forthcoming movie.
For further information see http://www.hotaches.com/. Thetrailerfor the movie can be seen on http://www.planetfear.com/
‘Epic’ Photo Competition
Hot Aches have kindly donated 3 copies of the DVD for a competition to find photos that best epitomise a climbing epic: we are looking for photos that capture the essence of traditional climbing and mountaineering (summer or winter). Photos should concentrate on pain and suffering, anguish and despair, falling off, getting cold and getting lost, but surviving!
Applications should be sent to Scottish Mountaineer Editor (Kevin Howett) by January 1st 2007. Entries can be submitted either as scanned images (at 300dpi minimum) or digital images (1MB minimum) or as original slides or prints (black or white).
Send entries to: kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk (max 10MB) or post to The Old Granary, West Mill Street, Perth PH1 5QP.
A copy of E11 will go to the best three entries as judged by Dave MacLeod himself.
Explore 2006
30th anniversary
annual expedition planning seminar
At Royal Geographical Society in London
25th and 26th November
Tickets £94 (£65 students), incl. lunch
opening address from Paul Rose
(BBC TV documentary: footsteps of 5 great explorers)
A unique event in the expedition world specifically geared towards first-time expeditioners. The 300 delegates will be given unrestricted access to more than 100 experts representing every facet of the expedition community.
For more information, or to book your place, see www.rgs.org/explore, email go@rgs.org or call 020 7591 3030.
Mountain Record Breaker
Congratulations Ken Butcher!
During September, Ken Butcher, veteran hill-walker and Honorary Treasurer of Dundee’s Grampian Club, joined the record-breakers by completing no less than 8 hill-lists. He also completed 1549 Marilyns, leaving just the 5 St Kilda ‘Improbables’ for another day.
Ken (right) is seen with colleague Alan Page on Conachair, St Kilda looking out to the misty island of Boreray and the Stacs beyond.