Mountain Safety | FAQs | Qualifications or Experience

Qualifications or Experience

An Information Sheet compiled from a presentation at the MCofS Clubs Guidance Seminar 1999, by Kate Ross.

Mountaineering Awards of the UK

The following awards are for the training of adults who wish to take others climbing walking or mountaineering, either as volunteers or through work.

What are the Awards and What are they for:

Single Pitch Award (SPA) - for leading and teaching rock climbing on single pitch climbs (*).
Walking Group Leader (WGL) - for leading groups hill walking in easy, restricted, non rugged terrain (summer conditions) (*).
Mountain Leader (ML) - for leading groups in mountains in the UK – summer conditions (*).
Winter Mountain Leader (Winter ML) - for leading groups in mountains in the UK in winter conditions (*).
International Mountain Leader (International ML) - for leading groups in non glacial terrain in Europe - summer conditions (**).
Mountain Instructor's Award (MIA) - for instructing groups in mountaineering and multi-pitch rock climbing in UK - summer conditions (**).
Mountain Instructor's Certificate (MIC) - for instructing groups in mountaineering and snow and ice climbing - winter conditions (**).
Mountain Guide (BMG) - for leading and instructing mountaineering, climbing and ski touring in Europe (All Year) (***).

For information and syllabus, contact:

MLTS, Glenmore, Aviemore PH22 1QU Tel: 01479 861248 (*)
MLTUK, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES Tel: 01690 720272 (**)
British Association of Mountain Guides, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES. Tel: 01690 720 386 (***)
British Association of International
Mountain Leaders, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES. Tel: 01690 720 386 (***)

Proficiency Awards:

Such awards are given for the attainment of personal skills in the relevant activity. Mountaineering does not have proficiency awards or 'star' awards as some other outdoor sports do. This is because what makes a good mountaineer is not performing a series of physical skills but rather good judgement, which, in part, is the result of varied mountain experiences. Having any award does not guarantee the safety of the individual.

Do I Need Leadership Awards?

Does this mean the MCofS is against Leadership Awards? – not at all. These awards train and assess mountaineers in the techniques of looking after novices (usually children) in the hills. They offer an easy method for organisations such as Local Education Authorities, Scouts, Guides and the Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme to determine that a leader has A MINIMUM STANDARD of experience and ability in hill walking and mountaineering and has some leadership training.

The amount of personal experience required is relatively low. For both the WGL and ML awards, entry experience is just 20 days and assessment is possible after 40 days in the relevant terrain. These awards are not required of the individual adult in a personal capacity but are often demanded by organisations like Local Authorities for those taking responsibility for others.

Individuals can all benefit from training in specifics. The MCofS offers training in navigation, mountain first aid, winter skills and avalanche awareness. If you want training in leading groups of people together with specific mountain skills, the WGL and ML awards are indeed excellent. But, They are not required for like-minded people going out together, whether as part of a club or as friends or acquaintances.

Experience will make you a better mountaineer or climber, assuming you take the trouble to learn from experiences, good and bad!