MCofS REALrock

the next step from indoor climbing

Some Comments and images of the MCofS Youth Climbing Initiative:

From The Kids and Parents:

The Rush of Real Rock
By Jonathan Stocking

When I went to the real rock sessions I was dribbling with excitement. My first crag was Auchinstarry quarry. I was itching to get climbing but first I had to learn how to use gear so Neil (my help for the day) gave me some ‘nuts’ and ‘cams’ and told me to stick them into some rock. I was a natural at placing nuts. I only top-roped and seconded routes at Auchinstarry, just to get the feel of things.

The next crag was Loudoun Hill. This is where I did my first lead. It was great fun. Kev was helping me that day and he abseiled down beside me as I was climbing. This gave me a lot of confidence. I led Pulpit Crack (HVS) it was a steep climb to hang onto while placing gear; I had to take a stonker of a ‘hex’ with me but it was good knowing I had at least one good bit of gear in! That was a great day but the best was yet to come.

The final crag I went to was Polney Crag at Dunkeld. My mouth was drooling when I saw it. Me and Kev went straight into a two pitch route. It was great fun. I had to anchor myself in at the belay without Kev there to inspect it, so I was a bit nervous but I got it right. I also climbed a 45m route and ran out of quickdraws three quarters of the way up but I managed to make do with what I had.

We did an amazing abseil down the face - at one point we were hanging in space. The real rock sessions are really good opportunities to get out trad climbing and well worth the money, and are a great experience.

Jonathan looking for the right gear Photo Kevin Howett

Ross leading The Hood Photo Davy VirdeeScary but Fun
By Ross Kirkland

boulderingI was really looking forward to the Realrock sessions this year.I do some outdoor climbing with my sister and my parents, but it is much more fun being with people my own age.This year I went on 2 sessions, one to Trappain Law and the other to Lower Cave Crag at Dunkeld.I liked climbing at lower cave best as I got to climb my first multi pitch route with Davy Virdee and my friend Jonathon Field. The route was called the Hood and is a ‘VS’.Davy led the first pitch with Jonathon and myself following.Davy was really good at explaining how to set up a belay at the top of the first pitch, although I had set up belays at the top of single pitch routes I had not done this before so it was something new.I got to lead the second pitch which had quite a scary traverse but it was a lot of fun and there was a fantastic view at the top.Can't wait till next time.

Aline Kirkland leading Bollard Buttress Direct (S) Photo Kevin Howett
“Trad climbing is awesome can't wait to do some more”
Aline Kirkland (aged 12)
“Aline and Ross were at Limekilns last weekend. Aline very confidently trad led two VS routes. The REALrock sessions really paid off. She also climbed an E2 on a top rope. Ross did more leading training using a top rope, trying to jump from crimp to crimp. He climbed VS, HVS and E1 so he was pleased.”
Heather Kirkland
Luke in action at Dunkeld
“I like having to jump up and reach for the holds before I fall off”
Luke Clayson (Aged 9)
“I really enjoyed the REALrock sessions. I learned a lot about how to set up a safe belay and how to place gear properly. I had great fun, even when it rained”
Karen McIntyre
“Many thanks to Martin and Ken. They patiently explained everything and it was an excellent introduction to climbing outdoors, and a great way to pass on a wealth of experience to a new generation”
Alastair McIntyre,
Karen's dad.

Euan at Craigmore Photo Ken JohnstonEuan and friend Frazer Watt geared up Photo Ken Johnston“I thought it was really helpful for me to have the chance to experience outdoor climbing. I also think the techniques I learned would be really helpful when I'm older and when I do more outdoor climbs. I climb mostly indoors so I don't usually get to do outdoor climbing so I hope to do more real rock climbs in the near future.”
Euan Ryan (aged 11)
 
 
“My son, Euan had a fantastic day climbing with his friend Fraser thanks to Ken and Martin who gave up their Sunday to initiate the boys in the pleasures of outdoor climbing. I was very impressed with their dedication and how they managed to stress the importance of safety without detracting from the sense of adventure and daring. It was a glorious day to be outdoors. Thanks again to Ken and Martin.”
Janie, Euan's mum

“I really enjoyed the REALrock sessions, I learnt a lot about climbing outdoors. I hope MCofS can do other trips because I don't have my own kit and I would like to do more outdoor climbing.”
Robin Fourman (aged 12)
Robin at Traprain Law Photo Davy VirdeeOn Jacks's Route, Rosyth Photo Kevin Howett
“Many thanks for the sessions. I was very impressed with the quality of instruction, and the rigorous emphasis on safety. They gave Robin's climbing a new boost - he's now pushing himself, has just led a 6a at Alien Rock, and is pressing me to visit local crags. They also renewed my enthusiasm. We now have a rope and a harness - for me!”
Michael Fourman, Robin's dad