REALrock 2010
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What its all about! |
REPORT
By Kevin Howett (Development Officer)
After a two year gap we started the REALrock sessions off again late this summer. This time we did them in association with some of the larger climbing wall centres, using their staff expertise and volunteers.
EICA: Ratho and Transition Extreme both came forward wishing to hold sessions and despite a short lead-in period we targeted the MCofS Kids Clubs and local advertising at the walls. Almost all the 30 young climbers who took part were introduced to outdoor climbing and leading on natural gear for the first time. Many attended several days and in total we delivered 41 different sessions. It was good to see members of the Quickdraw Club and the Granite City Rock Stars keen on going outside, but nearly half were non members and this was their first introduction to MCofS. Ruairdh Mackenzie held a one-off session with a father and son team at Duntelchaig as well as teaming up with Neil McGeachy for the MCofS AGM session.
Venues included Traprain Law and Aberdour in the south, the Pass of Ballater in the east and Huntley’s cave in the north. Trips were also made into deepest Northumberland!
We would like to thank all those involved in delivering this year’s sessions: Johannes Felter (Transition Extreme), Pamela Millar (Ratho), Neil McGeachy and Ruairidh Mackenzie (MCofS National Coaches).
Heres some comments from the kids, the volunteers, and the parents:
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PHOTOS: Scott Forsyth |
Dates: 29.08.10 / 18.09.10 / 19.09.10 / 25.09.10 / 26.09.10
Venues: Northunberland, TraprainLaw, Aberdour
Volunteer: Pamela Millar (EICA: Ratho Senior Instructor/ YoungPersons Activity Coordinator)
"We held 5 days of real rock sessions with over 6 kids on each session. Venues were Traprain Law, Aberdour and Northumberland. It was a great opportunity for the kids to climb on real rock instead of pulling up on plastic. We discussed the differing risk factors from outdoor climbing to indoor climbing, safe belaying techniques, loose rock etc.
Most young people learned how to take out gear and place it, seconding up routes like Wilfred Prickles (VS 5a), Deception Crack (HS) and Tacitation (VS 5a) at Kyloe Crag in Northumberland; Asinine (VS 5a), Escalator (VD) and Pain Pillar (VS 4c) at Aberdour and Deception (VD), Fake Route (S) and Via MacNiven (VS 5a) at Traprain Law.
Alexander, William, Sam, Ruaraidh, Elle and David all led routes including Great Corner, Steptoe, The Lilly, The Chimney and Flake Route. We managed a few abseils and all young people learned how to build belays."
Pamela Millar
"Pamela was great; a real bundle of energy and enthusiasm. She managed to get Ruaraidh to do his first lead climb on real rock, placing all the gear, whilst discretely keeping him safe. It was a big challenge for Ruaraidh as he was very anxious about it.
What I hadn't realised at the time was Pamela's helpers were volunteers. They were all absolutely super. There's quite a lot of effort required by the instructors, not only setting everything up, doing the instruction but also motivating and challenging the kids. The blighters can be quite tardy at times. So a big 'thank you' to all of them.
If you decide to organise more sessions next year, and I hope you do, could I suggest that camps covering two or three days, where 'camp' means tents and all that, could be a lot of fun as well as instructive. Anyway, thanks. It's all much appreciated."
Dick Middleton (father)
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Date: 29.08.10
Venue: Pinnacle Crag Duntelchaig
Volunteer: Ruairidh Makenzie
Attending: Ruairidh and Dougie Macaskill
A solid afternoon session with father and son learning to lead sucessfully placing all their gear.
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PHOTOS: Ruairidh Mackenzie |
MCofS AGM
Date: 04.09.10
Venue: Huntley’s Cave
Volunteers: Ruairidh Mackenzie, Neil McGeachy (MCofS National Coaches)
Attending: Dylan Mackenzie, Ruairidh Macaskill, Sophie Harper, Scot Kier, Lucy Spark
"The morning of the AGM REALrock sessions was the usual well-oiled machine. Neil McGeachy and myself were sure we were in for a midge fest at Huntley’s cave; with not a breath of wind at the lodge this was potentially going to be a hard day.
If you’ve never tried teaching someone to place gear on lead while being savaged by midges you will have to believe me when I say it’s trulycharacter building. Climbing, if nothing else, teaches you to be patient and to keep your head, so we reasoned that employing midges as a reliable distraction is probably a really good training tool.However the climbing gods were smiling upon us and a perfect steady breeze picked up as soon as we arrived at the crag.
Huntley’s caveis a great wee training venue, lots of coollines, good gear and positive holds: exactly what young novice leadersrequire to gain some confidence in their own climbing ability. The group soon dispatched a lead each and as we sat eating lunch and discussing gear another party of climbers arrived. They were shocked at the ages and ability of the young group which consisted of a range of ages and abilities including Sophie Harper, Scot Kier, Dylan Mackenzie, Ruairidh Macaskill, and Lucy (our first young adult to attend!) a session.
After a nice lunch all the climbers got another route ortwo in the bag and then I offered Lucy an attempt at The Double Overhang (HVS 5a). Having not led before today, one look at this daunting line of roofs got me the reply "are you kidding"! I offered to lead and she jumped at thechance and she actually climbed the route with ease!
Young Dylan (14) had a plan to on-sight the fierce Bo Po Crack (E6 6c) which has, as far as we know, as never seen a flash ascent yet. He made a very good effort which enthralled the crowd of other young climbers, but the reach over the roof was a bit too long for him. The local team of climbers were very impressed and asked if they too could get that strong; "only if you put the same mileage in he has" I replied, explaining just how many years Dylan has been climbing.
These REALrock sessions produce real climbers and that’s important I feel. But the MCofS doesn’t promote these events as much as they should. And REALrock for adults is desperately needed too (and more for kids as well) and not left to the end of the year next time. Anyhoo, a fab day out was had, well done to all concerned and big up the MCofS for putting these sessions on in the first place."
Ruairidh Mackenzie
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Rory Cargill takles is first E1 at the Pass of Ballater |
Date: 5.08.10
Venue: Pass of Ballater
Volunteers: Johannes Felter (Transition Extreme)
Attending: Jamie Peden, Rory Cargill
"Sunday the 5th of September was the first REALrock event that I had been to.My Mum and I arrived at 10.00 o’clock at the Pass of Ballater.It was a narrow steep sided valley with steep crags on one side.We waited here for a while and then Johannes arrived with Rory and his dad.After that we set off up the steep rocky path up to the climbs.Our first climb was a V.Diff called Jumbled Blocks Crack.This was very easy.
Then we moved on to a harder climb called Hairy Monsters.This was on a slab that we had to get lowered down on to.It was graded VS 4c. Rory scampered up it, but I (who hadn’t done any slab climbing) was not so sure.Then we tried two other climbs called Little Cenotaph and Silent Springs. These were HVS 5b and E1 5a.
The next climb we did was called Black Custard. This was an E1 5b and it was the hardest and also my favourite climb.After we had both done the climb we were knackered so we went and did some gear placements.The day was fabulous and I would advise others to do more real rock climbing."
Jamie Peden
"The day of the REALrock was a good opportunity for me because neither of my parents climb so it was an excellent chance to climb outdoors.
I think the coaching was amazing and the venue was brilliant. We climbed a lot of routes - probably more than I have ever climbed in one day! If we fell off the route, Johannes would always find a better way to do it. Johannes was very encouraging and nothing felt too difficult with his help. Jamie was a help to me too. We have climbed indoors together a lot in competitions but this was our first chance to climb outdoors and it was nice not to be in competition with him.
At the end of the day we learned about gear placement and Johannes showed us how to look for good ways of placing gear and also ways to check that it is safe by pulling, tugging and pushing it backwards to check it would not come out if you fell.
My greatest achievement of the day was flashing Little Cenotaph - I would never have believed my legs could bridge such a wide corner!
Thanks to everyone involved in organising the REALrock day...it rocked!"
Rory Cargill
