Scottish ‘Tooling Competitions

Indoor competitions using ice axes were set up some years ago by Scott Muir as the ‘Scottish Mixed Masters’ as a result of the growing interest in sport mixed climbing across the world and the interest in Ice Climbing Competitions held by the UIAA in Europe.

They have gone from strength to strength, with a growing band of followers eagerly awaiting the following year’s tool-fest.

In this respect Scotland is unique in the UK in having a number of climbing walls with the experience and ability to run such competitions – and of course the Ice Factor offering some real ice as well.

What are they like?

The competitions entail bouldering and top-roping routes using ice axes and are always held indoors at a selection of the main climbing centres.

They originally involved climbing on the artificial rock walls and some free hanging logs which gave a certain amusement to the proceedings. They are organised in a similar manner to normal ‘rock climbing’ competitions with height gained giving an increasing number of points.

But these are not just for the hard core tooling fraternity. If you rock climb a little then you have the basic skills and the series will give you a great opportunity to have a go and be inspired by seeing others do it well. It’s also a great way to try the styles needed for winter climbing!

A growing number of climbers in Scotland are now gaining interest in the European ice competitions as a result and a Scottish Series will acknowledge and support what is possibly the fastest growth competition sport in the UK!

What Gear do I Need to Take Part?

Competitors can use their own ice axes, although the adze/hammer needs to be removed if possible or made safer with padding. Helmets and gloves must be worn although helmets with face guards are optional but recommended for the youth categories. Competitors are required to wear outdoor mountaineering boots although youth competitors are exempt at some walls and can wear rock shoes when possible. Crampons will be required at some of the competitions (Glenmore Lodge and The Ice Factor) but at Glenmore youth competitors can use boots or rock shoes instead.

For 2008, a group of walls have come together to host a Scottish Series. There will be a series of five one day events being held over six weeks, at five different host venues leading to a grand final.

 

Scottish Tooling Series 2008

Each host venue will operate its own very different style for setting the challenges, which is what will make this competition so exciting:

· Ratho is the highest indoor venue that will be hosting its first tooling competition.

· Glenmore Lodge holds the competition outside on granite towers with crampons with an indoor facility to run workshops.

· The Extreme Dream wall in Aviemore is a shorter indoor venue with an array of angular and creative routes. The 13m horizontal leading roof is an awesome challenge. They are no strangers to hosting tooling competitions.

· Avertical Wall in Dundee is the climbing centre for Tayside with all angles from slabs, vertical, lots of overhangs plus a 7metre roof.

· The Ice Factor has an indoor ice wall and can mix this with hanging logs and the climbing wall. Perfect setting for a final as it has the indoor cafe; it is not weather dependent and plenty of viewing space

Dates:

Avertical World, Dundee: W/E of Nov 8/9th

EICA, Ratho Climbing Centre: W/E of Nov 15/16th

Extreme Dream, Aviemore: W/E of Nov 29/30th

Glenmore Lodge: W/E of Dec 6/7th

The Ice Factor, Kinlochleven: W/E of Dec 13/14th

Categories:

Youth Girls and Boys (15yrs and under)

Men / Women Sport (16yrs – 39yrs)

Men / Women Veteran (40+)

Booking Places:

Contact the individual host walls to secure your place. You must complete at least three competitions to have a chance of a final place.

Further information on all the competition details is available from the Glenmore Lodge website HERE

Sponsored by:

Tiso, Marmot, Petzl Charlet, Grivel, Scarpa, La Sportiva, Climber Magazine

Supported by:

The MCofS