SCRAMBLING Fact File

By Kevin Howett

Scrambling is exhilarating and fun. It allows fast movement over rough rocky terrain in spectacular situations, but it is also potentially the most hazardous activity you can do in the hills

What is Scrambling?
- an amalgamation of walking and true rock climbing; it is the ascent of steep sections of mountains where hands have to be used as well as feet. It is often done ‘solo’, without the use of technical equipment used in climbing (ropes, harness and protection devices). This is mainly because scrambles are usually part of a longer walk on a ridge or rocky hillside, where speed of ascent is important as part of a long day. However, a scrambler will find him or her self in potentially serious situations, where a trip or stumble would mean a very long fall.

How hard is it?
Most scrambles do not encounter vertical or overhanging ground but the hands are vital for support and to pull you over rocky steps. As you will probably be carrying a rucksack on your back, you need to have a good sense of balance. The harder scrambles will encounter steeper rocky steps and upper body (arm) strength becomes more important. When the scrambling becomes more ‘technical’ (you have to look harder for holds; there are less large footholds) then you will be entering the world of ‘graded’ rock climbing, albeit with graded climbing moves no more than those termed ‘Moderate’.

To help you judge what you are letting yourself in for, scrambles have their own ‘grading’ system [1 – 3 & 3(S)]; with 3(S) often involving graded rock climbing.

What gear do I need?
Most competent hill walkers can experience scrambling on the easiest scrambles without the need to indulge in more technical equipment. In addition to normal walking gear think about:

• A pair of good stiff walking boots with solid edges, which fit snugly and give good ankle support, are important. The composition of the soles is important. Boots at the cheaper end of the market may have plastic type soles which give very little friction on rock and even less so in the wet. Soles composed of moulded rubber (‘Vibram’) give much better friction and there are ‘trail’ type boots that offer soles of ‘sticky’ rubber the same as rock shoes.
• A Helmet may appear to be an item only for climbing. But bear in mind that statistics show that the single greatest cause of accidents is a simple slip and most occur to walkers not climbers. Even a small fall onto your head can be fatal so the use of a helmet may help prevent fatal head injuries from a slip whilst scrambling. It will also save your head from falling stones; as scrambling routes tend to follow major lines of weakness they can be quite loose in places.
• A Day-rucksack (40L size) is ample – filling anything bigger will simply be restrictive.
• You’re bound to get wet hands so a glove that gives good grip as well as keeps you warm is useful.

What Skills do I need?
You should bear in mind the following issues:

• you will encounter loose rock, scree, grass and other vegetation.
• route-finding skills are important as going off route may lead you into much more serious terrain
• if you are a walker, even an experienced one, but without climbing experience, the exposure encountered, with acres of air below your feet, may make you feel scared, and this could lead to a slip, so it may be advisable to start on easier, less exposed expeditions and build up.
• if you are an accomplished indoor or outcrop climber with little mountain experience you will be surprised at the new range of skills that are required.
• try not to climb up something you cannot descend.
• consider alternatives if the weather turns inclement – wet rock and grass on steep slopes can become additionally hazardous.

As you gain experience you can progress onto harder scrambles. You may wish to have the added safety of more technical equipment used in rock climbing [rope, harness, tape slings, karabiners to connect you to the slings and the rope and a few technical ‘running belay’ devices such as ‘Rocks’ and ‘Hex’s’ to place in cracks] but it is pointless carrying this equipment if you haven’t developed the skills to use it! You should take account of the following before making a decision to use these:

• using climbing equipment to protect scrambling probably involves more complex skills than rock climbing itself and takes practice to be of any value.
• bear in mind that two people connected by a rope who are both inexperienced, simply doubles the risk to each other and they may be better off without the rope.
• it is pointless having a rope unless you can fix (belay) each other securely to the rock whilst using it (or you may get pulled off when your partner falls). Finding reliable belay points to attach to on scrambling terrain can be more difficult than on rock climbs.
• some advice given in magazines and books implies you can simply tie the rope round your waist with an appropriate knot and belay each other using the ‘old fashioned’ method of a waist belay (wrapping the rope round your body to create friction to hold a fall). But consider that a climber would belay using a mechanical device such as an ATC attached to a harness to give much more security and support, especially if you fall off and dangle!
• belay devices will help in abseiling down a rocky outcrop and some Scottish scrambles require such descents. Although you can abseil without a harness and a device, it is uncomfortable and using the gear is more efficient.

On a long mountaineering expedition, where speed is essential for safety, climbers sometimes opt for a compromise between the safer but slow process of setting up fixed belays, one after the other (multi-pitch rock climbing) and faster but more serious soloing. They ‘move together’, climbing simultaneously but linked by a length of the rope. The one in the lead places running belays and loops the rope over blocks and spikes to help hold a fall. The second retrieves any gear as they follow. This is a fundamental skill in Alpine mountaineering which may seem relevant to scrambling, but it is complex to get right and only of benefit for two equally experienced climbers.

Finding advice

Phone a Friend
Find a like-minded soul who has more experience and is willing to take you out. Quiz them on their knowledge and experience and don’t be afraid to admit your inexperience and limits.

Read a Book
Read some ‘How to do it’ style text books and purchase a guidebook.

‘The Hill walkers Guide to Mountaineering’by Stuart Johnston is recommended for thosecompetent walkers looking for a good accessible guide to simple rope work. ‘Rock Climbing Essential Skills & Techniques’ by Libby Peter has a good chapter describing methods of ‘moving together’ and ‘short roping’ for the more advanced. This latter book is available from the MCofS (See page ?? for an order form).

Finding a Local Club
When trying to find a club to join that will cater for scrambling, look for‘mountaineering’ or ‘climbing’ clubs. Their members will be more climbing orientated; when they are scrambling they will be operating well within their skills level and experience. ‘Hill walking’ clubs may not ordinarily go scrambling and so may not be much more experienced than you. There are a few clubs catering specifically for scrambling. Look on the MCofS website for details of clubs.

Take a Course
Courses are run at the National Outdoor Centre at Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore (Tel: 01479 861 256, http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/ ). The Ice Factor at Kinlochleven also run weekend, 5-day and private instruction sessions (Tel: 01855 831100, http://www.ice-factor.co.uk/ ).

Finding Expert Tuition
Contact a British Mountain Guide or a Mountain Instructor to give you personal tuition and instruction.

Where to do it?
Scotland offers a large choice. The Island of Arran has some splendid ridge scrambles such as The A’Chir Ridge and Caisteal Abhail’s ‘Witch’s Step’. These are described in the SMC Rock Climbing Guide ‘Arran, Arrochar and the Southern Highlands’.

Glen Coe has many good introductions on Gear Aonach, Aonach Dubh and the Aonach Eagach Ridge. Nearby Ben Nevis offers big scrambles amongst the huge corries of the north face. Details are contained in the SMC’s ‘Scrambles in Lochaber’. However, the Island of Skye offers the best scrambles in the UK and ‘Skye Scrambles’ by Noel Williams (SMC) is the definitive guide.

The Northern Highlands also offer much potential and Information about these can be found in forthcoming new guides from the SMC.

Consider also: ‘Classic Mountain Scrambles in Scotland’ by Andrew Dempster and ‘Scotland’s Mountain Ridges’ by Dan Bailey.