Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships 2011

Transition Extreme, Aberdeen 24^th September

Report by Avril Gall

PHOTOS: Kevin Howett

50 climbers, aged between 8 and 18, made their way to the Transition Extreme complex amid Aberdeen’s beachside leisure facilities. Ahead were 15 bouldering problems, of varying styles and difficulties, which would take the top scorers into an even more challenging final.

This competition is fairly unique in the UK where boulder competitions are usually only open to climbers 12 and over. Addressing concerns over the injury potential that different bouldering moves and holds can pose for younger climbers, the Mountaineering Council of Scotland have created a detailed guide to setting problems for youth competitions. It governs the problems set as part of the Youth Climbing Series in Scotland and is used for this competition.

The Transition Extreme route setters had spaced things out around the wall using the full range of wall angles and a myriad of volumes and holds. With 4 hours to attempt the 15 moves identified for their age category the arena was soon buzzing as climbers quickly jumped on what they determined were their easier climbs and secured a couple of tops onto their score cards.

As the morning progressed it seemed that ‘topping out’ was the norm with only a couple of climbers falling prey to a foot slip or being unable to stick a hold and having to rely on a second or third attempt to reach the top. Climbers were awarded 10 points if they completed the problem first attempt, 7 on the second, 5 on the third and 1 point thereafter. There were also bonus holds on the problems that gained a point if no top was made. The quality of climbing on display saw 8 perfect scorecards of 150 being handed in at the end of the qualification round, all in the 11-13 age category.

The number of climbers in the final depends on the number in the category in qualifying, so only the 11-13 girls had 6 finalists, the rest saw the top 4 scores going forward. There were 2 problems to be on-sighted and climbers were given 4 minutes in which to try each one as many times as was required to top. Where a top was not made, each hold scored (as in the YCS competitions) and these points determined the final placings.

After a great turn out for the open 17-19 category in the Scottish Youth Climbing Championships (SYCC) earlier this year it was disappointing that there was only one entrant for this category. That said, Calum Forsyth didn’t rest on his laurels and attacked his problems with his usual enthusiasm raising a big cheer as he almost reached the top hold on the tough final green problem.

In the 14-16 boys local climber Scott Keir came out and romped up his first problem, this being the only top amongst the older categories in the final, securing himself the championship. Fraser McIlwraith, now back to full fitness after breaking his elbow in a fall during the British Bouldering Championships in London in January, pushed hard on the second problem but couldn’t quite match Scott’s overall score finishing second, with Inverness’s Dylan Mackenzie in third.

In the 14-16 girls, where the climbers had to confront the same problems as their male counterparts, Rachel Carr’s vice-like grip helped her repeat her success in the SYCC pipping Rebekah Drummond into second, ahead of Christie Macleod.

There were only three 8-10 girls entered so everyone went through to the final where Rhiannon Freireich made quick work of topping the 2 problems to secure the championship ahead of Keri MacLennan and Holly Davis. This was a repeat of the SYCC results.

In the 8-10 boys Rory Whyte also managed a double top with ease, taking the title ahead of Euan Farmer, in his first ever climbing competition, and Connor Moore. We are looking forward to watching these climbers develop over the coming years.

The 11-13 categories were the best attended and the toughest fought with 8 perfect qualification scorecards being completed. The 2 final problems were very different, the first involving movement across a roof and the second involving balance and control. While one suited some better than the other Eilidh Vass Payne went furthest on both to take the title ahead of Kirsten Gray and Gabriella Stewart.

The boys weren’t as easy to sort out. William Bosi and Angus Davidson went down to the wire in the SYCC in May and this time things had to be taken to a super final to sort them out after both topped their finals problems.

One route, one attempt. After a coin toss William was out first and got as far as many of the older climbers. Angus followed but couldn’t control the crucial move. William, like Rhiannon, Rachel and Calum, completed the double to take the Scottish Youth Bouldering Championship four months after the Scottish Youth Climbing Championship.

A massive thanks go out to all the volunteers; Transition Extreme for their wall, enthusiasm and route setting; MCofS for their support of this and other Youth Climbing Events in Scotland and of course all our young climbers whose dedication, determination and sportsmanship really make these events a success.

FULL RESULTS