Winter Climbing
A Visitors Guide to Scotland
Scottish Winter Climbing Areas:
Further to reach for most people than the Alps. This area in the extreme far north west corner of Scotland, remains relatively undeveloped, although there has been an increase in interest since 2000. Fionaven is the most important mountain in this area and offers big north facing crags up to 300m high. Recorded routes are mainly icefalls on Creag Urbhard. Also far to the north on the various crags of Ben Klibreck lie a number of recent routes up to Grade V.
South of Unapool lies the isolated lump of Quinag which also now offers a few good routes up to 200m long.
Just north of the village of Ullapool lies Ben Mor Coigach. In the centre of this Coigach range is Sgurr an Fhidhlier. The huge triangular ‘Nose’ of this face gives one of the most outstanding winter climbs of Scotland and its flanks also now host some hard modern mixed routes. The nearby but much smaller ‘mini-mountain’ of Stac Pollaidh now also offers an increasing number of short mixed routes on its northern flanks (climbed in 2001/2002) and is relatively close to the road.
This is the area extending from Ullapool down to the road from Inverness to the Kyle of Lochalsh (and the island of Skye). On the eastern side of the A835, Inverness to Ullapool road, lies the huge mass of Beinn Dearg. It’s north east corries are quite remote but it’s Gleann na Sguaib face is not so far from the road and often in condition. It offers two buttresses of 180m and the bigger West Buttress 350m. Routes are mainly in the mid Grades III & IV and include the excellent Emerald and Penguin Gullies. Further east again, lies a remote area including Seana Bhraigh and the Bodach Beag group of hills. Access is long and arduous from the east but a couple of open ‘Bothies’ are to hand as a base. Seana Bhraigh offers nearly 20 climbs up to 300m in height in the middle grades (I – IV).
To the west of the road the most prominent mountain is An Teallach, the most northerly of a wild and remote collection of hills, and the most easily accessed. The traverse of its ridge is an excellent winter outing. Two eastern corries (A’Ghlas Thuill and Toll an Lochain) offer routes up to 250m mainly in the lower grades but also a few Grade V icefalls and a mixed Grade VI on Lord Berkley’s Seat near the summit.
A bit further south is the Fannich Range of mountains. The highest summit of Sgurr Mor contains some 300m grade II & III gullies and a classic Grade III buttress which are often in condition late into the season, whilst its neighbough Sgurr nan Clach Geala gives the best winter face with routes up to 250m, mainly Grade IV to VI.
The ‘Wilderness’ area south and west of the above hills (Known as The Letterewe & Fisherfield Estates) contains a complex series of mountains, most of which require either a very long walk in and out (up to 15 miles of rough terrain) or an overnight stay in a tent (although there is an open ‘Bothy’). The closest to habitation is Slioch above Kinlochewe whose western buttress, known as Atlantic Wall offers a 400m gully at Grade III and a mixed Grade VI. Further into the wilderness lies the North East Face of Beinn Lair. Composed of a compact rock called Hornblend Schist that is vegetated and lacks cracks. It offers a handful of 300m gullies at Grade II & III and a lot of future potential.
The most important area is the sandstone of Torridon, south of Kinlochewe. Here are two major mountains offering some of the best winter climbing in Scotland, hidden from view from the road on the northern side of each mountain. Beinn Eighe’s Coire Mhic Fhearchair and its ‘Triple Buttresses’ offer superb 300m routes from Grade IV to Grade VII including hard mixed and gully routes. Laithach offers even more choice and is home to the best icefall climbing and steep ice gullies in the UK contained within three main corries. Between 150m and 300m long, there are some easier (Grade II / III) routes but the majority are between Grade IV and Grade VIII.
Finally, to the south of this area are two neighboughing mountain masses. On Fuar Tholl are two excellent contrasting buttresses. The 200m South East Cliff is home to some of the hardest ice smears in the area (Grade VI and Grade VII). The very different Mainreachan Buttress gives 200m buttress climbs from Grade V to Grade VII. The Applecross Peninsular contains the huge mass of Beinn Bhan which has six corries forming its north east face. It is home to some of the finest winter climbs in Scotland. There are a handful of easier climbs but the majority are hard and serious Grade V to Grade VII climbs particularly on the daunting 400m ‘Giants Corrie’.
Near the town of Fort William, lies Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. It is undoubtedly the most important winter climbing venue. Its north east corries form walls and ridges of Alpine stature and its position near the sea and Atlantic weather fronts means ice builds up quickly, and in the best conditions, on bare rock walls forming white neve which can be climbed anywhere. It also has icefalls, classic snow/ice gullies and modern mixed with over 350 climbs from Grade I to Grade VIII to choose from. The Orion Face is almost 400m high and the great ridges between the corries are classics at Grades III to IV with Tower Ridge the longest vertical climb in the UK at 600m, Grade III.
Just to the north lies the ‘Snowgoose’ Ski area on Aonach Mor whose east and west faces give small but extensive crags just below the summit ridges. They give reliable ice early in the season when other crags are not frozen. With over 60 climbs of abut 100m height, both ice and mixed, from Grade I to Grade VII (but mainly in the IV and V grades) only 150m walk from the top ski tow, they are very popular. Next door lies Aonach Beag which is more secretive and less popular but gives some excellent 200m Grade VI icefalls as well as mixed routes up to grade VII,8.
Close by here, north east of Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor, lies Creag Meagaidh. It is one of the pre-eminent venues for long ice routes, both gully and smears. Routes range from 150m to 400m and Grade II to Grade VII with some excellent Grade V’s.
In the opposite direction, south of Fort William is Glen Coe –a large glen composed of the complex Bidean nam Bian and it’s satellite hills, and the Aonach Eagach Ridge. Climbs can be found across numerous crags but the most reliable are found high up in the back of Bidean’s corries. On Beinn Fhada are 100m gullies and mixed lines to Grade VII but most in Grade III and Grade IV. On Gear Aonach are excellent 150m icefall climbs to Grade V and Grade VI and a selection of longer (300m) gully routes around Grade III. It also now sports a Grade IX mixed route. On Aonach Dubh north and west faces are routes from 100m to 300m and Grade II to VI, both hard mixed chimney and gully lines, and ice smears. The most important venue lies below Stob Coire nan Lochain giving 150m routes from Grade II to Grade VII including a couple of classic gullies and a series of excellent hard mixed routes. The most impressive architectural hill here is actually beyond the glen and is Buachaille Etive Mor. Its summit, Stob Dearg forms a pyramid of fantastic walls, buttresses and gullies overlooking The Kingshouse Hotel. Between 100m and 300m high, there are nearly 30 climbs varying from classic gullies, mixed walls and smears of ice. Grades range from Grade II to Grade IX with many in the Grade IV to Grade VI range.
Finally in this area, down Glen Etive, lie the huge expanse of slabs of Beinn Trilleachan. In good cold weather two or more 200m ice smears form at Grade IV.
This large area of high plateau up to 4,000ft lying towards the east of Scotland gives generally more stable and colder conditions than elsewhere. The rock is granite, containing much vegetation and so offers a lot of mixed turf and rock climbing for which it has become famous. The mass is bisected by the glen of Royal Deeside naturally splitting it into north and south.
Northern Cairngorms
There are some very remote cliffs in the heart as well as easily accessible ones close to the Cairngorm Ski complex near Aviemore. Here lie the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm, Coire an T-Scheachdha and Coire nan Loachain. These offer many routes around 100m from Grade I gullies to Grade VIII mixed (and one Grade IX). They can be regarded as ‘winter cragging’ with café comforts not far away in the Coire Cass Ski area.
The Loch A’an Basin in the heart of the plateau, accessed from the ski area but quite remote, contains a stunning series of crags in the circe at the head of the basin. The Shelterstone Crag offers the most spectacular cliff with its 300m high bastion, containing routes from Grade IV to Grade VIII, both mixed and tenuous ice smears. Its neighbourgh, Carn Etchechan, about 250m gives a host of mixed lines from Grade III to Grade VI. Its north facing aspect means routes can be in condition well into the season and its turfy rock allows climbing in a variety of conditions with generally good protection. Opposite these cliffs is Hells Lum. This faces south east and ices up on a regular basis to give numerous 150m Grade IV & V ice lines. Stag Rocks and Stac an Fharaidh lie further along Loch A’an. They also face south , do not take drainage and the climbing tends to be mixed. Stag Rocks is generally more broken and gives some good 150m climbs of Grade II to Grade IV as well as a few in the harder grades, including one vertical icefall (50m Grade VI).
A little further away again, to the south of the basin lies Creagan a’Choire Etchachan offering 150m routes on generally iced lines (Grade III to Grade V). A very small bothy at the base of the crag allows a weekend visit. This is a possible base for the Coire Sputan Dearg on the other side of the hill. This is an excellent early season venue with routes up to 200m and Grade V.
The rest of the great cliffs are very remote and require more than a day to climb on them. To the east is Beinn a’Bhuird with four huge corries containing routes up to 250m and accessed from Deeside. There are about 30 routes with many in the Grade II and Grade III range and then in Grade V and Grade VI range. The impressive Mitre Ridge in Garbh Choire is one of Scotland’s most impressive features and is home to the best climbing here from Grade V to Grade VIII. To the west side of the massif are the mountains Braeriach and Cairn Toul. The 6km of corries on their west side provide excellent ice gullies, snow arêtes and mixed buttress and face climbs up to 200m. Grades range from Grade I gullies to Grade VII mixed routes, but there are many excellent Grade IV and V ice lines. The cornices can be huge here and the only permanent snow field in Scotland lies in Garbh Choire Mor. A couple of nearby Bothies can prove essential.
This is the area of land south of Deeside and north of the town of Dundee. Two main mountains dominate from a climbing point of view, both within the Balmoral Royal Estate. Lochnagar (more properly called Beinn na Chiochan) is the ‘crowning glory’ of the area,. Its north east face offers a complex series of walls and buttresses up to 250m. As well as easier gully routes it also has many modern mixed climbs from Grade V to Grade IX, including the classic Eagle Ridge 250m (Grade VI).
Nearby and at the head of glen Muick is the mountain Broad Cairn. It contains the 350m Creag an Dubh Loch; with over 1km of continuous cliff, it is the biggest cliff in The Cairngorms. Nearly 30 winter climbs exist from Grade II to Grade VIII. There are vertical icefalls and gullies, but it is the hard mixed routes that predominate.
Near Bridge of Orchy and the railway station lies Beinn an Dothaidh with two corries offering winter climbing, Coire Achaladair being more reliable. This has many good 150m Grade III to Grade V climbs. The other corrie contains two classic 130m Grade IV icefalls.
Nearby Creag an Socach on Beinn Dorain is home to a series of hard and steep buttress routes of 120m long and Grades ranging from V to VII and with generally poor protection. A little further south is Beinn Udlaidh, an icefall venue which comes into condition quite quickly. Ranging from 80m to 180m and Grade II to Grade VI it is one of the best venues for vertical and free-standing icicles in Scotland. Ben Lui between Crianlarich and Tyndrum is a beautiful shaped mountain with an enticing 200m Grade I gully in its North East corrie, clearly visible from the road.
The other hills of the Central Highlands area are not so endowed with cliffs, although buttresses and faces do exist. Ben Lawers, by Killin, is a big hill but with disappointingly little climbing. Only in Coire nan Cat are there decent climbs, but it faces south east and is a cold early season venue. There are four climbs from Grade III to Grade VI and 100m high. Neighbouring Meall nan Tarmachan has several high level buttresses on its ridge giving routes up to 150m between Grade II and Grade V. On Ben Cruachan, the north east face of the Stob Dearg summit has a couple of 260m climbs on steep granite slabs (Grade IV). On Cruachan’s Drochaid Ghlas are five routes of Grade IV and 150m.
However, the best winter climbing is found in the Arrochar area, north of Glasgow. Here, the Cobbler is superlative. Composed of mica schist it is frequently poorly protected. This is now the home of the best mixed climbing in the area with numerous routes of 50m to 100m, up to Grade VIII and highly technical. Nearby, The Brack contains a few 150m lines (Grade V & VI), but Beinn an Lochain has better choice on two buttresses one giving several Grade III ice gullies / smears up to 400m, the other a handful of 150m Grade IV & Grade V lines of ice and mixed.
In general, the islands do not have sufficiently high mountains nor cold enough weather for reliable winter conditions, the west coast waters being warmed by the Gulf Stream. However, during very cold periods, the mountains on the islands of Skye and Arran can produce routes as impressive as many on the mainland.
Skye:
The long chain of mountains making up the Cuillin ridge also offer some of the longer routes in Scotland. The following are the most notable: The Pinnacle Ridge (Grade III) and the West Ridge (Grade II) of Sgurr nan Gillean are both amongst the best on the island. Nearby lies An Caisteal which holds a superb Grade IV gully. The South West Face of Sgurr an Fheadhain offers two gullies up to 400m and Grade IV. Coir’ a Mhadaidh below this mountain and Sgurr a Mhadaidh holds several 120m to 200m buttress and gully routes ranging in grade from Grade II to Grade IV as well as a couple of Grade VI icefall/gully lines. Waterpipe Gully can be seen from the road as it drops into Glen Brittle. The North West Ridge of Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh is a good 550m Grade II and the corrie of the same name has a Grade IV gully. Other routes are recorded on Sgurr na Banachdich and Sgurr Alasdair.
Arran:
Relatively few routes have been achieved as conditions are fleeting. Beinn Nuis has one big gully at Grade IV. The most reliable venues include the Ciore Daingean Face of A’Chir. Up to 200m it has several Grade II and Grade IV climbs. The best is the North East Face of Cir Mhor. Large wet and vegetated it offers 350m lines from Grade II to Grade VI.
There is not a lot of winter climbing in the Borders or Galloway Hills in the South West. The main interest are the frozen waterfalls of The Gray Mare’s Tail (IV) and Dobb’s Linn (Grade II). These aside, in the hills of Galloway are a few recorded routes for the connoisseur. The large rambling cliffs on the east face of Craignaw contain a couple of 100m gullies, one being climbed at Grade IV. The north facing crag of Black Gairy on The Merrick has a few climbs up to 250m (Grade III gullies & a Grade V ice and buttress climb). Two corries on Swatte Fell facing, Blackhope Glen contain routes in the Grade II/II range.